"Crown Molding offers a tight, technical climb on December Wall’s South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. With sustained corners, bolt-protected traverses, and a tricky upper crack, this 80-foot trad route tests careful gear placement and precision movement in a rugged Colorado setting."
Crown Molding presents a focused introduction to the technical demands of December Wall, set against the rugged backdrop of South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. This single-pitch climb, stretching 80 feet, tests both precision and patience with its sustained corner sequence and delicate gear placements. The climb begins with a narrow, physical corner that requires confidence in small cams and nuts, challenging climbers to maintain steady focus while negotiating protecting the exposed but manageable terrain. From there, a bolt-protected hand traverse crosses with composure, guiding you beneath a striking ceiling capped with another bolt. Above this, a right-angled crack demands awkward but controlled movements to reach the anchors.
The rock here feels alive, as the canyon’s layered walls reflect the uneven Colorado sun, and a cool breeze shifts through the pines on the ledge. From the anchor vantage point, the landscape opens to views of the canyon’s steep walls and rustling aspens, reminding climbers that this is a wild place shaping each move. The new chain anchors offer reliable rappels or secure toprope setups, opening the door to extend your day by tackling the nearby Door Jamb chimney, a 5.9 route rated for chimneying skill, but skippable if you prefer to avoid the grip of the upper section.
Preparation here is key; the small gear placements require a rack stacked with micro cams and small nuts, supported by a #3 Camalot for the upper crack. While bolts provide some reassurance through the traverse and roof, much of the challenge is protecting fingers and toes on gear that tests your ability to read rock and balance effort. Approach the climb with well-fitted climbing shoes for edging on the technical smears and a steady chalk bag to maintain grip on the often dusty granite.
December Wall’s south-facing exposure offers morning shade but heats up under midday sun, so early starts in warmer months gain pleasant temperatures on the rock. The approach trail from Lyons is short but steep, winding through forested paths and scrappy bluffs that reward you with a sense of seclusion away from the town’s bustle. After your climb, rappel carefully back down on the fixed chains, paying close attention to rope management as ledges and rock edges can abrade lines.
Though Crown Molding doesn’t see frequent ascents, its compact nature and thoughtful gear sequence make it a worthy warmup or a standalone challenge for trad climbers seeking a blend of technical movement and manageable exposure within Colorado’s St. Vrain Canyons.
Pay close attention to gear placements in the tight corner, as the protection is subtle and the rock can be less featured. The new chain anchors are solid but inspect them for rope wear before rappelling. Also, watch for rockfall hazards while preparing for the hand traverse and roof sections.
Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures on this south-facing wall.
Bring a variety of small cams down to micro sizes for the sustained corner.
Toprope the first two-thirds of Door Jamb from the anchors to avoid the challenging upper chimney.
Check new chain anchors carefully before committing to rappel.
A rack emphasizing micro cams and small nuts will serve well here, with a #3 Camalot recommended for secure placements in the upper crack. Bolts protect the traverse and roof sections, but much relies on well-placed small gear.
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