5.9, Trad
Twentynine Palms
California ,United States
"Crown Jewels offers a straightforward but engaging two-pitch trad climb on Joshua Tree's Feudal Wall. From a rocky scramble start to its greasier midsection and welcoming slabs above, it challenges with character and clear protection."
Crown Jewels stands as a compelling two-pitch trad climb situated on the left side of Feudal Wall, within the rugged expanse of Joshua Tree National Park. Approaching from Indian Cove Campground, climbers begin with a third-class scramble right of The Castrum to reach the base. The route immediately demands focused attention as it ascends straight past a single, prominent 3/8" bolt. Beyond this bolt, the rock develops a greasier texture, and the crux pitches up into moves that feel trickier than guidebook ratings suggest, edging above a 5.7 in difficulty. This section tests precision and footwork but offers an alternative — a 5.6 chute about 10 to 20 feet right — that sidesteps the slickness and eases the challenge.
Once past the bolt section, the climb opens into less sustained terrain that flows more comfortably but retains a steady level of engagement. Most climbers opt to pause at an intermediate ledge, placing a belay to reduce rope drag and catch their breath. The second pitch unfolds as approachable 5.5-5.6 slab climbing, peppered with interesting hand and foot placements that reward steady technique while preserving the route’s welcoming character.
Protected by four well-placed bolts complemented by traditional gear placements, Crown Jewels invites both emerging climbers and seasoned adventurers seeking a memorable outing without the commitment of lengthy routes. The rock here is characteristic Joshua Tree: rough, gritty, and textured enough to offer secure holds, but requiring careful attention on the polished sections.
Beyond the climbing itself, the environment frames the experience with vast sun-dappled granite faces and wide panoramic views of the surrounding high desert. The area around Indian Cove hums with desert life—twisting juniper and resilient pinyon pine brace the approach path, while dry winds whisper through unmistakably Joshua Tree flora.
Planning your climb demands attention to footwear optimized for slab and friction moves, layered clothing to adjust for the desert’s sharp temperature swings, and ample water for hydration. Early autumn through spring provides the most comfortable weather windows, avoiding the intense heat of summer. Ascending during morning or late afternoon hours lets climbers benefit from softer light and cooler stone.
Crown Jewels remains a favorite for its blend of challenge, beauty, and straightforward protection. It's a climb that encourages focus without anxiety, delivering that satisfying Joshua Tree mix of adventure and accessibility.
Whether you’re dialing in your trad skills or simply after a solid multi-pitch route with character, Crown Jewels is a worthy destination. Step into the granite, feel the desert sun on your skin, and embrace a climb where every move connects you more deeply to this classic terrain.
The section above the bolt can be notably slick, especially after moisture or sunscreen contamination—exercise caution with your hand and foot placements. Manage rope drag carefully by belaying on the intermediate ledge. Also, keep an eye on the desert temperature and avoid climbing during peak afternoon heat.
Initiate your approach via the right side scramble of The Castrum for the most direct start.
Watch your footing on the greasier holds just above the bolt—consider the 5.6 chute right if conditions feel slippery.
Break the climb into two pitches with a belay at the intermediate ledge to reduce rope drag.
Aim for early morning starts to beat the desert heat and enjoy cooler stone underfoot.
Bring a standard trad rack, including cams and nuts to supplement the four fixed 3/8" bolts. Incorporate some shoulder-length slings to manage rope drag, especially on the first pitch where placements are spaced. The bolted section requires careful clipping but protection is reliable overall.
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