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Crown Jewels: Trad Climbing at Joshua Tree’s Queen Mountain

Twentynine Palms, California United States
right-slanting crack
exposed traverse
short crux
multi-pitch
granite
desert
Length: 160 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Crown Jewels
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Crown Jewels challenges climbers with a right-slanting crack followed by a steep, exposed face traverse capped by a powerful 5.9 crux. This two-pitch trad route delivers classic Joshua Tree granite with desert vistas and technical moves that balance memorable effort and steady flow."

Crown Jewels: Trad Climbing at Joshua Tree’s Queen Mountain

Crown Jewels offers a compact but thrilling two-pitch trad climb located on the reigning spires of Queen Mountain within Joshua Tree National Park. This route invites you to engage with the desert’s welcoming ruggedness and timeless granite, presenting a climb that balances straightforward movement with a sharp, memorable crux. The approach leads you into a sun-drenched expanse of desert flora and weathered rock, where dry winds push the heat against your skin and the distant calls of desert birds punctuate the stillness.

The first pitch is an inviting right-slanting crack system that tests your technique with hands and fingers finding purchase while the crack gently ascends to a secure belay station. This section demands steady focus and precise footwork as the rock’s texture challenges your grip without overwhelming your progression. By halfway up, the climb takes on a new character: exposure increases, and the rock face stretches outward, teasing you with open air and expanded views of Joshua Tree’s iconic horizon.

The second pitch begins by edging across a steep, exposed face traverse. This part is where the route asserts its reputation. You’ll feel the raw intensity of the climb as your body leans into the traverse, feet searching for solid footing on small holds while your hands maintain connection to the rock’s sharp seams. The traverse leads to a short but powerful 5.9 crux, demanding a brief surge of strength and finesse to overcome the strenuous moves to the top. Once past the crux, the terrain eases and the summit rewards with 360-degree panoramic views cast over desert washes, sculpted rock forms, and distant mountains.

Protection is straightforward here, with a standard rack serving well for placements along the crack and face traverse. The rock quality is solid granite—typical of Joshua Tree—offering reliable placements, though you’ll want to stay deliberate when placing gear around the exposed sections to ensure confidence and safety.

The environment surrounding Queen Mountain has a particular personality. The desert sun warms the granite, coaxing the rock to reveal its texture, while breezes intermittently sweep across the face, reminding climbers that nature has an active hand in every ascent. Early morning climbs gain advantage over the heat, especially during warmer months, while late afternoons offer softer lighting and lengthening shadows that highlight the contours of the climb. Falling evening light colors the rock in warm golds, beckoning reflection on the day’s efforts.

For those planning their climb, the hike to approach Crown Jewels is moderately brief but crosses largely open terrain with sparse shade, requiring appropriate hydration and sun protection. Wearing sturdy climbing shoes with good edging capabilities will be critical in managing the crack system and exposed face traverse. The route's moderate length of 160 feet with two pitches makes it well-suited for climbers looking to sample traditional climbing at a manageable scale but with a taste of technical exposure.

Joshua Tree’s Queen Mountain area offers more than just the climb; it gives a raw connection to desert landscapes where wind, rock, and sun merge into a pursuit that’s physical, mental, and sensory. Crown Jewels keeps things approachable for intermediate climbers while still holding fast to the desert’s uncompromising character. Whether it’s your first trad climbing step or a sharpening run, this route rewards preparation with movement that’s engaging and directly tuned to the geology and spirit of Joshua Tree.

Climber Safety

Watch carefully for loose rock on the exposed traverse section, and ensure you have solid gear placements in this more vulnerable portion of the climb. The approach’s open desert terrain means sun exposure is significant—prepare accordingly to avoid heat-related issues.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heat on the exposed face traverse.

Bring plenty of water; approach crosses open desert terrain with limited shade.

Use climbing shoes with precise edging for the crack and face holds.

Double-check gear placements on the traverse to secure protection in airy positions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, this route feels on the tougher side for its grade due to the steep face traverse and short but strenuous crux move. Climbers familiar with Joshua Tree’s granite will find the grade firm but fair, with a crux that demands both strength and composure. Compared to other local 5.9s, Crown Jewels offers a dynamic transition from crack climbing to exposed face work, presenting a well-rounded challenge.

Gear Requirements

A standard trad rack is sufficient here, with emphasis on solid placements along the crack system and careful gear in exposed traverse sections. Typical protection sizes cover the crack completely—no specialty gear needed.

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Tags

right-slanting crack
exposed traverse
short crux
multi-pitch
granite
desert