"A sharp 55-foot sport climb on Mt Wells’ Firewall wall, Crispy Critters offers tight crack moves that lead to a striking missing rock triangle. Perfect for climbers who value technical finesse wrapped in focused endurance."
Crispy Critters stands out on the Firewall wall of Mt Wells as a focused but rewarding 55-foot single-pitch route that challenges climbers with its technical crack and narrowing holds. From the moment your fingers find the initial crack, the climb invites a physical dialogue—a sequence of deliberate moves that require both power and finesse. The crack feels alive under your touch, demanding crisp precision before you commit to the stretch leading up to a large, distinct missing triangle of rock—a defining feature that creates a natural landmark mid-climb.
Above this triangular void, the climbing tightens, transitioning into thinner holds that test your balance and core strength. Here, the route’s character shifts, creating a moment that nudges you to stay composed and deliberate. The final section eases noticeably, offering a brief respite as you approach the top anchors, a welcome breath after the concentrated effort below.
Protection on Crispy Critters is straightforward and reassuring, consisting of five well-placed bolts leading to shared anchor chains with the adjacent route, Hooters to the Moon. This bolt spacing supports confident climbing while requiring careful clip efficiency to maintain flow. The rock itself on Firewall is firm and reliable, offering solid friction, though climbers should stay aware of occasional sharp edges near the bolt lines.
Access to Mt Wells is practical, with the Firewall wall prominently positioned on Vancouver Island's rugged landscape. The approach involves a manageable hike through mixed forest terrain, rewarding climbers with fresh Pacific Northwest air and dramatic views as you arrive at the base. Early morning light highlights the wall’s textures, making spring through early fall the ideal window to tackle this route when the weather is stable and the rock dry.
Crispy Critters is well-suited for climbers looking to push their sport grade skills in a compact, intense package. It offers a sense of vertical intensity without overwhelming length, making it an excellent choice for a focused afternoon session or as part of a day exploring multiple climbs on Firewall. Footwear with sticky rubber will enhance your grip while a dynamic rope and a quickdraw set tuned to clip speed enhance efficiency.
For Vancouver Island visitors, this route provides a taste of the region’s climbing diversity. It balances the raw challenge of technical crack climbing with approachable protection, set against a backdrop of green forests and coastal breeze. Beyond the climb itself, the area is rich in hiking and nature spotting opportunities, encouraging a full day outdoors beyond just the rope and wall.
In sum, Crispy Critters delivers an accessible but engaging test of technique and composure amid the sharp features of Mt Wells. It rewards attention to detail on the moves and care in gear placements, promising a climb that is as mentally stimulating as it is physically satisfying.
While protection is solid, avoid running out clips between bolts near the thinner sections to minimize risk. Be mindful of sharp rock edges that could wear ropes or gear, and check anchors carefully before the final top-out.
Start early to catch morning sun and avoid afternoon shade on the wall.
Wear sticky-soled shoes to handle the crack and delicate edges confidently.
The approach involves some uneven forest trail sections—trail running shoes or sturdy boots are recommended.
Check weather forecasts carefully; the rock can feel slick if damp, especially after coastal fog.
Five well-spaced bolts provide secure protection, making this route a straightforward sport climb. The anchor is shared via chains with Hooters to the Moon, streamlining the top-out. Bring quickdraws and pay attention to clip sequences to maintain momentum.
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