"Crimpergirl is a focused trad climb at Joshua Tree’s Morongo Man Cliffs. Its crack and face climbing sequence demands precise technique in a short, sunlit pitch framed by rugged desert granite."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Joshua Tree National Park, Crimpergirl offers a focused yet rewarding trad climb that punches well above its modest length. The route begins roughly 100 feet left of the more notorious Morongo Man, marked by a bush that guards the initial crack. Here, the rock demands deliberate hand and finger placements on cracks measuring between 2.5" to 3"—a solid test of crack climbing fundamentals. After establishing protection early on, the climb branches into a traverse moving rightward, giving a tactical rhythm as you skirt past two bolts. This traverse isn’t just a physical move, but a moment to connect with the sun-warmed rock and take in the stark desert environment that frames Joshua Tree with its sculpted granite forms and open blue skies.
Following the traverse, the route shifts focus to a crack that shrinks to 1.5" or smaller, pushing into a 5.8 face section accompanied by a final bolt before finishing at a two-bolt anchor system. The climb demands steady footwork and finesse in crack technique, rewarding those who respect the stone’s natural features without overreaching. The granite here is coarse and textured, offering excellent friction but also the occasional sharp edge to approach with care.
Despite being a single-pitch route at just 70 feet, Crimpergirl carries the concentrated spirit of Joshua Tree’s trad climbing: straightforward, gritty, and set in an environment that pushes you to stay present. Ideal for climbers wanting to sharpen crack-handling skills in an iconic desert setting, it’s approachable without being trivial, making it a worthy stop on any Joshua Tree excursion.
When planning your climb, note the sun exposure on the wall which faces east-southeast; mornings are cooler and better for climbing in warm months before the heat builds. The approach is short but crosses uneven terrain featuring loose rock and desert vegetation, so sturdy shoes and cautious footing are essential. Carrying gear for 2.5" to 3" cams at the start and smaller friends for the upper crack will keep your protection solid. Hydration is crucial here—not just because of the desert heat but because of the focused energy needed for sustained crack technique.
Crimpergirl balances excitement with technical demands, shaped by granite that listens to your movements and responds with reliable holds and challenging sequences. It’s a route where the desert wind hums low and the sun keeps a steady watch, reminding you what subtle commitment in this place rewards.
The granite edges can be sharp, so protect your hands carefully and pay attention to the rock quality in cracks for secure placements. The approach includes loose rock and desert scrub—avoid loose footing especially while carrying gear.
Start early to avoid mid-day desert heat; east-southeast facing wall gets hot quickly.
Wear shoes with good edging ability to handle both cracks and slabby face moves.
Watch footing on approach trails—rock debris and desert scrub make terrain uneven.
Bring hydration and sun protection; desert sun is intense even in cooler months.
Protection calls for cams sized between 2.5"-3" in the initial crack, then smaller gear from small up to 1.5" for the upper sections. Three bolts are in place, including two at the anchor.
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