"Cremation is a succinct yet demanding 20-foot sport climb on Cemetery Face. It challenges climbers with a steep bulge and technical holds, rewarded by positive side pulls and a comfortable jug near the top—an inviting test of control and skill along Newfoundland’s rugged coastline."
Cremation cuts a striking path up the sheer cliff of Cemetery Face, located just outside Portugal Cove - St. Philips on the Avalon Peninsula. This compact 20-foot route is a concentrated burst of technical climbing, centered around an overhanging bulge that demands precise body positioning and sharp fingerwork. The rock here is solid and textured, offering reliable friction as you move through small holds that challenge your grip strength and footwork. The line follows three strategically placed bolts, guiding you straight up before veering just left near the top where a jug and positive side pulls provide a welcomed reprieve. The juxtaposition of tension in the lower moves with the relative ease near the anchor creates a satisfying rhythm and the sense that careful beta can ease the effort.
Cemetery Face itself is a rugged, windswept outcrop perched above the North Atlantic, where salt air mingles with pine-scented breezes. The approach trails weave through low shrubs and weathered stone, exposing climbers to panoramic views of rolling hills and crashing waves far below. The compact nature of Cremation means it’s accessible for a quick, focused session, ideal for climbers with an eye on technique and a pursuit of eye-catching single-pitch sport routes.
Plan your outing with the tide of the day in mind—morning light softens the textured rock, enhancing visibility on those small holds, while the afternoon sun may warm the face, helping dry any lingering moisture after coastal fog. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential for the delicate edges, and chalk will keep your hands confident as you navigate between holds. With just three bolts plus an anchor to protect your ascent, a lightweight rack and steady clipping technique maintain both safety and speed. For newcomers to the route or those sharpening their 5.11a skills, scouting the leftward move to the jug before committing can unlock a smoother finish.
Expect some exposure to brisk ocean breezes but little in the way of loose rock; the protection is secure, yet thoughtful placements mean you won't want to rush the clipping or the moves. Locals recommend timing your climb outside muddy seasons to avoid slippery approaches and taking minimal gear to keep your pack light. After topping out, return by a short scramble that keeps you connected to the rugged shoreline environment without adding unnecessary distance or complexity.
Cremation’s essence is in its directness: a steep, athletic challenge framed by the sharp northern coast’s natural drama. It’s the perfect spot for climbers seeking a bold sport pitch with a blend of technical holds and dynamic movement, set within a wild landscape that refuses complacency.
The route’s protection is minimal with three bolts spaced to keep you safe, but careful clipping and controlled movement are essential to avoid falls on the bulge. The rock is solid, but the proximity to coastal winds means maintaining balance and focus is crucial, especially on exposed footholds.
Approach from Portugal Cove trailhead; expect a 10-minute walk over rocky terrain.
Morning climbs benefit from softer light and cooler temperatures.
Avoid wet conditions—moisture can make the small holds tricky and unsafe.
Scout the move just left of the direct bolt line for an easier finish.
Three bolts and a solid anchor secure the route, requiring precise clipping to maintain flow. Bring lightweight quickdraws and sticky-soled shoes for sharp smearing. Chalk and steady footwork are key when navigating the small holds over the bulge.
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