"Dive into the 80-foot technical face climb of Crazy Yahoos Shooting Shit at Cedar Point. This 5.11d single pitch challenges climbers with a dynamic overhang and precise crimping that demands focus and finesse."
Crazy Yahoos Shooting Shit at Cedar Point in New Brunswick invites climbers to engage a focused, technical challenge over a single, dynamic pitch. From the base, the climb begins with a face-to-the-wall approach, where precise footwork and confident hand placements set the tone. The route quickly accelerates toward a distinctive overhang known locally as the 'funny angle,' a feature that demands both strength and fluidity. Here, the horizontal seam becomes the key hold line, requiring steady smearing against the rock beneath your shoes to maintain balance and momentum. Traversing this section involves a calculated mix of crimping and laybacking along the lip to navigate past the overhang smoothly. At roughly 80 feet of vertical push, this sport climb tests a climber’s ability to read subtle holds and apply body tension where it counts.
Situated about 45 kilometers from the bustling St. Andrews region, Cedar Point’s isolated rock face holds quiet power as a climbing destination. The orientation of the wall means early mornings provide cool shade, a reprieve from the afternoon sun that heats the rock’s surface. With nine bolts installing solid protection along the route, security is reliable, and the shared maillon anchor at the top invites both top-rope setups and safe rappels.
The grade, sitting at 5.11d, represents a spike in technical difficulty for those comfortable with this style of sport climbing. The 'funny angle overhang' is the crux where physical endurance meets delicate finesse. Climbers coming from local nodes like Fundy National Park will find the challenge comparable in its demand for precise footwork and sustained grip, yet unique in its continuous face climb transitions.
For those planning a trip, the approach involves a short hike over well-marked trails, requiring about 15 minutes through mixed forest terrain before arriving at the base. Rock conditions are generally firm, but occasional moisture can make the smearing sections slick, so timing visits on drier days is advised. Climbers should bring shoes suited to sensitive edging, and chalk can help keep hands dry through the crimp sequences. Hydration is essential given the exertion and sun exposure later in the day.
Descending is straightforward—rappelling down the bolted anchors demands standard two-rope technique. Be mindful of loose rock near the top and watch your belay setup. Weather can shift quickly in this region, so checking conditions ahead is smart to avoid unexpected rain or wind during your climb.
Crazy Yahoos Shooting Shit offers a compelling mix of focus, technique, and a bit of whimsy in name alone. It’s a rewarding sport climb for visitors looking to stretch their skills on the west-facing granite walls of New Brunswick. Prepare well, respect the rock, and embrace this distinct challenge in Canada's quiet east coast climbing scene.
While bolts are plentiful, the ledge at the top has loose rock—stay vigilant during anchor setup and rappel. Seasonal moisture can turn smearing sections hazardous; avoid climbing after rain or in damp conditions.
Arrive early to enjoy cool morning shade before the rock heats up.
Check weather forecasts carefully; wet rock means slippery smears.
Wear precision climbing shoes to handle the delicate footwork.
Be cautious with the rappel—secure anchor checks prevent surprises.
Equipped with 9 closely spaced bolts ensuring solid protection, plus a shared maillon anchor suitable for top-rope or rappel. Bring shoes optimized for edging and chalk to maintain grip during crimp-heavy sections.
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