"Crankin' Stein offers a physically demanding handcrack climb on Devil's Advocate’s rugged wall, challenging climbers with a sideways start and a sustained crack system. This single-pitch route delivers a direct encounter with the rock’s texture and solid protection in a scenic Colorado setting."
Crankin' Stein presents a gritty, physical challenge on the striking Devil's Advocate wall in the Flatirons, Colorado. This single-pitch trad climb demands commitment from the first reach, where a sharply leaning handcrack pulls you sideways before coaxing you upward along jamming holds that feel rock-solid under pressure. The initial meters test your balance and technique, trading vertical gain for tricky horizontal movement as you secure each jam and move against gravity’s pull. The route is not just about strength—it invites you to engage fully with the rock’s rhythm and textures.
Once past the starting section, the climb opens into a slightly overhanging sequence of hand jams that deliver the crux in a very natural but demanding way. Here, your hands seek purchase overhead, moving with control and precision. A rightward corner then invites a shift in focus; steady footholds guide your ascent through a shallow corner and continuing crack system that rewards steady effort and smart gear placement. The feeling nearing the top is one of earned accomplishment, capped by a traverse on a horizontal crack before dropping back right to the rappel anchors.
Located in Boulder’s renowned Flatirons, the Devil's Advocate area offers a rugged setting that is both accessible and scenically charged. The rock's coarse texture and solid flakes give confidence for placements, ideal for those carrying a moderate rack. A typical set of cams in the 1.5 to 3.5 inch range fits the protection needs well. Longer slings can prevent rope drag especially through the horizontal sections, keeping your line clean and efficient.
For climbers seeking a technically engaging and straightforward trad line, Crankin' Stein provides a reliable test piece. It’s especially well-suited for those looking to sharpen their hand crack skills in a high-desert environment rich with sweeping views and a persistent breeze that cools efforts even on warmer days. The trailhead lies within striking distance of Boulder, making it an attractive day-trip option without sacrificing solitude or focus.
Preparation is straightforward but important: wear shoes with good toe jamming ability, pack extra webbing or slings, and plan your approach to avoid midday heat when sunbaked rock can sap energy. The approach trail is moderate, weaving through piñon and juniper before opening onto open rock slopes where the wind carries the sharp, dry fragrance of the high plains. The descent is equally simple with a rappel from the top anchor, allowing for a swift return to the base.
While the Devil's Advocate routes don’t boast high star ratings, Crankin' Stein stands out as a solid climb where effort meets payoff. It demands respect without intimidation, rewarding climbers willing to engage fully with its unique sideways start and flowing crack system. This route is a valuable addition to any moderate trad climber’s repertoire in Colorado, perfect for sharpening fundamentals amid one of the continent's most iconic climbing settings.
While protection is generally solid, placements in the leaning crack require careful evaluation due to irregular flake angles. Approach with caution and maintain secure gear placements to avoid rope drag, especially in the horizontal crack near the top. Check rappelling gear thoroughly before descent.
Start early to avoid hotter afternoon temperatures on the rock’s sun-exposed surface.
Focus on hand positioning during the initial sideways start to maintain balance.
Use longer slings on gear placed in horizontal sections to minimize rope drag.
Descent via rappel from the top anchor—double-check your setup before leaving the ledge.
Bring a set of cams from 1.5 to 3.5 inches to cover the crack widths effectively. Longer slings will help reduce rope drag, especially on the horizontal traverse near the top.
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