"Step into the raw, gritty chimney climb of Cradle of Filth on Yukon’s White Mountain. This short but textured 5.9 sport route challenges you with large holds, a sooty chimney squeeze, and solid bolt protection—perfect for climbers seeking a true northern adventure with practical beta."
The Cradle of Filth route offers a compelling blend of gritty chimney climbing and confident sport moves tucked into the rugged embrace of Yukon’s White Mountain. This short, single-pitch line demands a mix of power and finesse as you start low on the left edge of a prominent crack. Large, encouraging holds guide your hands and feet upward, leading to a small ledge that feels like a breath of fresh air before the crux—the chimney. Here, the climb gets character: the space is tight, dirty, and raw, asking you to find your way through a sooty chimney that’s more forgiving than it once was but still proudly rough around the edges. Use a blend of pinches and side pulls on the outer face to manage your balance, while the interior demands careful body pressure and a measured squeeze to inch upward.
Despite the grime, the route’s bolts offer peace of mind, spaced evenly along the wall, culminating in a solid bolted anchor with a rap ring—perfect for a smooth descent or top-rope rehearsals. The climb is compact at just 40 feet, but it packs in a tangible Yukon wilderness feeling, with the air crisp and the surrounding mountains looming quietly. This isn’t a polished gym climb; it’s an authentic slice of northern adventure that invites grit and persistence.
Cradle of Filth sits in an area that merges rugged beauty and solitude, far from crowded crags but accessible enough for those ready to explore off-the-beaten-path sport climbs. The approach takes you through craggy, lichen-spotted terrain that’s typical of White Mountain, with a short but sometimes slippery access trail. Time your visit for late spring through early fall when weather and light conditions give the best climbing windows. Prepare for cool temps and variable conditions, and bring a broom to keep the route as clean as you find it.
This climb is ideal for climbers comfortable on moderate 5.9 routes who don’t mind a bit of dirt and texture under their fingertips. The chimney section rewards careful technique and willingness to engage with a natural feature that feels alive—almost as if the rock itself is challenging your approach. Whether you’re topping out to take in sweeping Yukon views or quickly lowering off to solid ground, Cradle of Filth offers a memorable taste of northern sport climbing with a unique edge.
The chimney section can feel cramped and slippery due to dirt accumulation. Bring brush tools to clear the holds, and be cautious moving through tighter slots to avoid unexpected slips. The approach trail can be uneven and damp; proper footwear is essential.
Approach trail can be slick; wear sturdy shoes with grip.
Late spring through early fall offers the best climbing conditions and daylight.
Carry a small broom or brush to keep chimney holds clear.
Use the bolted rap anchor for a smooth and safe descent.
The route is protected by five well-spaced bolts with a bolted top anchor and rap ring. A standard sport rack with quickdraws is sufficient. Bring a broom to sweep the chimney, as it still holds some dirt and debris.
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