"Cracks are for Kids challenges climbers with a gritty, unpolished start and rewarding hand jams on Boulder Canyon’s Island Rock. This short but steady 5.8 trad route makes for an authentic and engaging day out, combining technical gear work with Boulder’s wild rock character."
Cracks are for Kids offers a compact but compelling trad climb on Boulder Canyon’s Island Rock, demanding both technique and steady nerves. This gritty 80-foot route begins with a precarious scramble off grass-streaked ledges, where lichen-slick holds and finger jams put your commitment to the test from the ground up. The initial moves feel unrefined—raw edges and uneven footing underscore the climb’s rugged character, rewarding those who push past the awkward start.
As you ascend, the route opens to a clean, hand-sized crack where confident jamming becomes the rhythm of your movement. The natural groove invites you into its embrace, providing secure placements amid the textured stone. It’s an honest climb that doesn’t rely on gloss or polish but demands focus and adaptability—qualities prized by adventurous trad climbers.
Approach begins left of the canyon’s main face, navigating a grass-covered ledge and then trending left again toward a steep gully beneath the bolted arête of the nearby route No Man is an Island (11a). The crack system of Cracks are for Kids stands out clearly here, offering compelling lines for those ready to engage with a classic Boulder Canyon experience.
Protection centers around doubles of green Alien cams through to hand-sized pieces, necessary for secure placements and constructing solid anchors atop the pillar. While the rock’s texture challenges gear placement with its lichened sections, a patient rack builder will find reliable spots for protection, especially near the top where the belay anchor is established.
Descent requires care: rappelling directly from the crack’s summit risks rope damage from a harsh double right-angle bend. Instead, set a trad anchor in a crack just above the pod on the pillar’s right side and lower off, clipping the bolt anchor from No Man is an Island—clearly visible from the anchor spot but somewhat tucked. Second climbers will then clean the trad anchor and rappel down to the bolts for a safer, cleaner descent.
Even though the route has a rough-edged personality, it rewards perseverance with steady rock quality in the upper half and an engaging hand crack that typifies Boulder Canyon’s rich trad heritage. It’s a climb that beckons those eager to test their crack skills in a setting defined by honesty and a slightly wild feel, far from polished stadium climbs.
For visiting climbers, Boulder Canyon’s proximity to Boulder, Colorado, provides access to additional routes and vibrant local climbing culture, so it’s well worth the trip to explore this emblematic route and surrounding areas. Take your time, choose your gear wisely, and stay mindful of the descent to experience a solid day of climbing with a uniquely Boulder twist.
The start features slippery grass and lichen that can complicate secure foot placement; tread carefully. The rappel requires setting up a trad anchor away from the top to prevent rope damage from severe angles, so plan your descent carefully to avoid risk.
Approach from left of the center of Island Rock’s main face; watch for grassy ledges that can get slippery when wet.
Place protection carefully on the lower sections where lichen-covered holds may feel insecure.
Set your rappel anchor in the crack above the pillar’s right side to avoid rope abrasion on sharp edges.
Descend by lowering to the bolt anchor of No Man is an Island before rappelling to avoid tricky rope angles.
Bring doubles of green Alien cams up to hand sizes to protect this climb effectively. These sizes cover placements for both the route and the trad anchor needed for rappelling safely from the pillar top.
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