"Cracking Up delivers a compelling single-pitch trad climb through a solid crack and into a cozy chimney, testing your chimney technique and mental grit with a bold face-exit crux. Situated in Golden Canyon, Yukon, this route blends dependable gear placements with an adventurous setting."
Set against the rugged backdrop of the Yukon’s Golden Canyon, Cracking Up offers an unforgettable trad climbing experience that challenges both your technique and nerves. This single-pitch, 92-foot route opens with a committing crack that soon funnels into a snug chimney, inviting climbers to settle into its confines before facing the defining crux: a bold move back onto the face. The approach to this exit tests your balance and headspace, adding a thrilling edge to what is otherwise a steady, gear-friendly line. The crack offers solid protection up to 3 inches, making placements reliable throughout, and the anchors at the top ensure a safe and straightforward descent. The wall’s north-northeast aspect means shade lingers through much of the day, creating crisp conditions ideal for late spring through early fall climbs. Golden Canyon itself is a gem for adventurous climbers seeking remoteness paired with well-protected routes that demand respect and focus.
From the ground, the route’s defining feature is its inviting dihedral which gradually tightens into that intimate chimney. It’s not just a climb but a conversation between you and the rock, where the crack dares you to trust your hands and feet while the chimney encourages a moment of calm before the exposed crux. Whether you’re stepping up for your first lead or honing trad skills in the north, Cracking Up tests your ability to read the rock and place gear with confidence in a wild setting used less often than southern crags.
Accessing the climb requires a short hike from the Yukon’s Golden Canyon parking area, following a worn trail that skirts untouched forest and jagged outcrops. The terrain remains straightforward but demands sturdy boots and careful footing over talus and loose shards. Expect a 15-minute approach that sets the mood with pine-scented air and distant bird calls punctuating the silence. Packing sufficient water and layering smartly is key, as cooler temperatures prevail in the canyon's shade, particularly in the shoulder seasons.
Cracking Up’s appeal blends its technical demands with practical gear considerations. The protection runs clean with good mid-sized cams, allowing confident placements in parallel and slightly flaring cracks. The chimney section is roomy enough to rest, making it an excellent spot to regroup before the pivotal crux. Climbers approaching this route will benefit from brush-up on chimney techniques and preparing mentally for the committing face exit which is short but aggravated by exposure. This climb embodies the Yukon’s wild spirit—raw, unpretentious, and rewarding those who come prepared with skill and respect for the rock’s character.
The crux move back onto the face is exposed and demands precise footwork and solid protection placements—don’t rush this section. Loose rock near the base also requires cautious footing during the approach.
Wear sturdy boots for the loose talus approach trail.
Practice chimney climbing to feel comfortable in the tight section.
Start climbs early to avoid afternoon cooler winds in the canyon.
Double-check gear placements before the face-exit crux for safety.
Bring a trad rack with cams to 3 inches. The protection runs solid throughout the crack and chimney, with reliable anchors at the top for easy rappel or lowering.
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