"589 at Reed’s Pinnacle is a focused 50-foot trad climb that demands precise crack technique and gear savvy. Its variable moves, from confident jams to challenging offwidth or lie-back sequences, make this a nuanced test for any climber seeking a short but meaningful Yosemite challenge."
Set against the soaring walls of Reed's Pinnacle within Yosemite National Park, route 589 offers a concentrated burst of traditional climbing challenge that distills the raw essence of Yosemite's granite artistry. This 50-foot single-pitch climb demands more than brute strength; it calls for finesse, a strategic mindset, and an appreciation for the subtle shifts in crack sizes that can swing the difficulty significantly. The ascent begins with finger and hand jams that feel solid and satisfying under the palms, a stage where confidence builds. But as the rock twists upward, the route slips into a gnarlier sequence — a forced decision point between committing to an awkward offwidth move that swallows protective gear or opting for a demanding lie-back to reach the first ledge. Each choice reshapes the experience, amplifying the difficulty if misjudged.
Beyond this critical corridor lies a chimney segment that offers relief through stemming techniques, requiring smooth, balanced body positioning rather than brute force. This section moves comfortably but offers scant opportunity for protection, underscoring the importance of well-planned gear placement earlier in the climb. Climbers who grasp the subtle beta find themselves breezing through the tricky spots, while others might find the climb’s modest 5.9 rating telling only part of the story—the route can feel like a harder challenge in real-time.
Set in the heart of the Lower Merced River Canyon, the rock face basks in afternoon sun, warming the stone but shedding shade enough to provide occasional respite during hotter months. Approaching the climb reveals the whisper of the river below and the crisp mountain air, lending a sensory backdrop that is calm yet anticipates the push ahead. The granite’s texture offers reliable friction, while the exposed position grants sweeping views across Yosemite Valley’s eastern flank.
For those planning to take on route 589, packing a full standard trad rack is non-negotiable because the route is notorious for devouring gear with tricky placements in the offwidth and crack sections. The approach is straightforward from the established trails near Reed's Pinnacle but stay alert to loose scree and scrub as you ascend to the base. Timing your climb for late morning or early afternoon ensures better rock temperature and good sun exposure on the wall.
Safety on this climb revolves around recognizing when to commit to protection spots and when to trust body positioning in less protectable sections. The chimney’s stemming moves, while physically less demanding, require smooth balance and a spare moment of focus. Descent options are straightforward with a single rappel down the established anchors, but the approach back requires care on uneven terrain. With the right preparation and respect for its nuances, route 589 offers a rewarding challenge to intermediate trad climbers eager to hone their crack skills amid Yosemite’s backbone granite.
Be alert to the limited protection in the chimney section; stemming here relies on balance without much gear support. Also, the offwidth’s snug fit may make placements awkward or gear bindings questionable, so double-check placements before committing.
Start fresh—warm up finger and hand jams before tackling the offwidth move.
Choose your beta carefully on the initial crack to avoid the harder offwidth option if you’re less confident.
Wear shoes with a stiff sole for edging on the ledge and chimney sections.
Aim to climb mid-morning to early afternoon for ideal sun and rock temperature.
A standard trad rack is essential here as the route’s tight offwidth and crack sections demand a full spread of cams and nuts. Expect to place gear frequently, especially before committing to the offwidth or lie-back moves where protection is tricky or non-existent.
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