HomeClimbingCracked Tooth

Cracked Tooth: A Classic Trad Route on Dental Wall

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
trad
crack-climbing
slab
single-pitch
lake-tahoe
runout-section
micro-cam-protection
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cracked Tooth
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cracked Tooth presents a clean, engaging trad climb on Lake Tahoe’s Dental Wall. Climbers navigate a right-angled crack before tackling exposed slab moves, all within a compact 50-foot pitch that offers steady protection and a rewarding dose of Sierra granite character."

Cracked Tooth: A Classic Trad Route on Dental Wall

Cracked Tooth offers a straightforward taste of traditional climbing on the rugged Dental Wall, just south of Lake Tahoe along the Highway 50 corridor. From the moment you step onto the approach hillside, the raw granite face commands your full attention. The route starts on the left edge of the wall, inviting climbers to navigate a clean diagonal crack that steadily rises to the right. This crack acts as a natural guide, providing solid hand and foot holds while offering ample protection opportunities for micro cams and small to medium nuts. The rock here is polished but generally reliable, demanding focus on precise placements and footwork.

As you reach the termination of the crack, the climbing shifts onto an exposed slab. The angle eases, but protection grows sparse, making this final stretch a test of confidence and careful movement. The slab’s texture is smoother, with subtle edges and friction playing critical roles. A short runout to the anchors requires a steady nerve and a clear head. Despite the modest vertical gain—just 50 feet—the route delivers an engaging sequence that balances technical crack climbing with the mental challenge of thin slab moves.

The setting around Dental Wall is open yet sheltered by the surrounding pine forest, which rustles with the afternoon breeze and softens the sun’s warmth. This combination of striking views and quiet wilderness lends an honest character to the climb, ideal for those seeking a no-nonsense adventure close to Lake Tahoe’s bustling recreation scene.

Gear-wise, the route favors #2 cams and smaller micro cams, which fit snugly within the crack’s varying widths. Being well-prepared with a versatile rack is key since protection tightens just before the final slab section. The placement opportunities are generally trustworthy, making the protection straightforward but meaningful.

Getting to Cracked Tooth involves a short, moderate approach with light bushwhacking and scrambling. The trail is not heavily maintained but remains clear enough for those with some route-finding experience. Timing your climb for the early morning or late afternoon hours helps avoid baking sun on the rock, enhancing friction and overall comfort.

Whether you’re warming up on a traditional route, brushing up on crack technique, or simply chasing the thrill of exposed slab climbing, Cracked Tooth offers a crisp, focused outing that reflects the rugged spirit of the Sierra Nevada granite. Expect a blend of tactile hand jams, mental slab reading, and nature’s quiet insistence pushing you toward the top.

Climber Safety

The slab near the top features a noticeable runout with sparse protection. Make sure your micro cams are securely placed before moving into this section. Rock quality is good but watch for occasional loose flakes near the crack start.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid hot afternoon sun on the slab section.

Use sticky-soled shoes with good edging ability for the slab finish.

Micro cams are essential; double-check placements before committing.

Pack water and snacks; the trail offers little shade during midday.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels fair for the movements required, delivering a solid test of crack skills combined with a slab that slightly bumps the mental difficulty. While not overly strenuous, the runout at the top demands good judgment and careful footwork. Compared to nearby climbs, this route is approachable for intermediate climbers looking to refine their trad technique.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack focused on #2 cams and smaller micro cams to cover the diagonal crack and protect the runout slab. Nuts and micro cams fill the slot before the final moves.

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Tags

trad
crack-climbing
slab
single-pitch
lake-tahoe
runout-section
micro-cam-protection