HomeClimbingCrack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Rain Check)

Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (Retrobolted as Rain Check)

Boulder, Colorado USA
corner crack
retrobolted
single pitch
trad sport hybrid
Boulder Canyon
Length: 160 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Rain Check)
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A classic Boulder Canyon line refashioned for sport climbers, Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine offers a 160-foot single pitch blending trad roots with retrobolted security. Its seamless corner crack challenges precision and gear savvy, while afternoon shade invites a tactical timing for your ascent."

Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (Retrobolted as Rain Check)

Rock climbers venturing to Boulder Canyon will find a distinctive challenge in "Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine," a route reborn as the sport climb Rain Check. Once a purely traditional line relying on skill with small cams—especially the nimble Aliens—the evolution of this wall now offers a blend of careful protection and the tension of exposed climbing. Starting from a natural seam that catches the eye, the climb follows a corner crack that demands steady footwork and crack technique, a nod to its trad roots. The retrofit bolting, installed in 2009, peppered the line with fixed anchors that transform it into a sport climb, yet the route keeps its thoughtful, deliberate pace. The first 60 feet are tightly bolted, coaxing climbers safely upward, but the lower section still invites respect for the original gear placements, where protection was once a careful art.

Stretching 160 feet over a single pitch, this climb teases out a steady 5.9-PG13 difficulty that balances accessibility for competent climbers with moments that require focus and precision. The rock’s texture is firm, with edges and cracks that engage the hands and feet, all set against the rugged backdrop of the Boulder Crag area. The climb’s position across from the imposing Bihedral wall makes for a visually compelling area, where granite’s solid presence invites both contemplation and commitment. While the altered protection might ease some concerns, the climb maintains the grit and muscle memory of its trad lineage, demanding that climbers remain attentive to body positioning and gear management.

Arriving at Boulder Canyon is straightforward, with clearly marked approaches and a reputable climbing community nearby. The route’s orientation means it catches morning sun early but slips into shade by afternoon, which makes tackling it in the cooler hours ideal, especially in summer. Remember to come prepared with a rack supporting cams up to a #4 Camalot to address the original features, despite the bolting upgrade. Footwear with good edging capability and sticky rubber will help on the varied holds, while hydration is important even for this relatively short pitch due to local exposure.

Despite the retrobolting, the route has retained its core identity—where past and present climbing philosophies intersect. It stands as a proving ground bridging old-school trad finesse with the security of sport climbing, offering a valuable experience regardless of your background. Gear placements remain possible if you choose to supplement bolts, preserving a connection to the route’s history. Just be aware that some bolts precede potential natural gear placements, altering the protection rhythm compared to the original ascent.

In sum, Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine, now Rain Check, challenges you to read the rock carefully and move with purpose, rewarding with rewarding movement and commanding views from the ledges. Plan your timing and gear wisely, and anticipate a climb that respects both tradition and modern practices alike.

Climber Safety

Although bolts improve security on the lower section, the rock can be steep with limited resting ledges. Climbers should remain mindful of rope drag and avoid over-reliance on bolts placed before optimal natural gear. Seasonal rock conditions can vary, so check for moisture or loose stone, especially after precipitation.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon shade and maximize rock warmth.

Bring a full trad rack up to #4 Camalot despite the bolting.

Sticky-soled climbing shoes will help on tricky edges and crack jams.

Watch for the three bolts placed before natural protection opportunities to avoid redundant clipping.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9- PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9-PG13, this route offers a moderate technical challenge that feels slightly more secure due to retrobolting, although old-school climbers will spot opportunities for pro placements. The grade is moderate, with a crux requiring precise movement in the corner crack. Climbers familiar with Boulder’s trad lines will find this a softer introduction but still engaging, while sport climbers can appreciate the accessible bolt ladder.

Gear Requirements

Originally a small-cam trad climb relying heavily on Alien-sized gear; now retrobolted with approximately 10 bolts in the first 60 feet. Pro to #4 Camalot recommended for supplementing natural placements.

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Tags

corner crack
retrobolted
single pitch
trad sport hybrid
Boulder Canyon