The Crack Route on First Face is a concise yet satisfying trad climb that offers a clean line up one of Joshua Tree’s well-known formations. From the base, you face a large bulge on the upper section—a formidable feature that sets the stage without intimidation. The climb kicks off with a quick mantle step onto a ramp, where a small piece of protective gear can be placed if you choose. From here, the crack reveals itself, inviting steady hands and precise footwork to negotiate the crux: a tight but secure sequence of moves demanding good holds and delicate foot placements. Upon surmounting this effort, you arrive at a small ledge that briefly offers respite before continuing upward through a low-angle crack, easing the strain as you reach the top.

Though short at just 30 feet, the route concentrates quality and technique in a compact pitch, making it an ideal challenge for those sharpening trad skills or seeking a sharp contrast to Joshua Tree’s bigger granite walls. Protection is straightforward but deliberate—bring a selection of cams including sizes 1 and 3 C4s or Black Aliens to confidently guard the crack’s limited placements, with some scope for smaller pieces depending on your comfort level.

Situated within the iconic sprawling desert park, First Face sits under clear blue skies and open air. The approach is simple: accessed via the Nancy Karl Trail, the terrain shifts from sandy tracks to rocky footing, a prelude to the granite kingdom ahead. The exposure brings desert sun that warms the rock early in the day, so early starts will keep your grip solid and the heat manageable. The route’s north-facing aspect offers welcome shade during warmer months, making spring and fall the prime seasons for a climb that combines technical engagement with classic Joshua Tree vibes.

Descent is straightforward with an easy scramble down the formation’s backside to a durable trail that loops back to the parking area. Track the landmarks carefully, as loose gravel can demand attentiveness underfoot. For gear and approach, sturdy footwear and layered clothing are recommended to handle shifting desert conditions. Hydration is critical here — Joshua Tree is a dry environment where water sources disappear fast.

Whether you’re stepping onto the broad stage of Joshua Tree’s climbing scene for the first time or seeking a focused, approachable trad route to refine your crack climbing, Crack Route at First Face delivers. It’s a compact adventure enriched by clear holds, distinct moves, and a quiet connection to the land and granite that has drawn climbers for generations.