"Crack Right serves up a focused trad climbing experience with its set of dependable parallel cracks on Scorpio Crag’s right edge. At just 35 feet, it challenges climbers with solid hand jams and a secure bolted anchor in Vogel Canyon’s striking high desert environment."
Crack Right stands as a concise but engaging trad route along the right flank of Scorpio Crag, tucked within the rugged confines of Vogel Canyon. At a modest 35 feet, it invites climbers to test their skills on a pair of parallel cracks that demand steady hands and precise jamming technique. The rock’s texture here is firm and offering just enough friction to reward clean movements, while the cracks themselves fall into the large-hand range, ideal for climbers comfortable with solid hand and fist jams.
As you ascend, the canyon’s dry air filters through the nearby scrub and scattered juniper, accompanied by distant bird calls and the occasional rustle of small animals. The setting is quiet yet charged with the energy of the Colorado high desert, where sunlight casts sharp shadows along the rock face, guiding your path upward. At the top, a slight leftward traverse leads to a bolted anchor—a welcome safety feature that grants peace of mind after the physical effort.
Protection here leans toward the larger end of cams, with no piece smaller than a #2 BD C4 recommended, emphasizing the need for prepared rack selection. The crag’s placement within Picket Wire Canyon offers a remote feel without excessive approach difficulty, allowing climbers to move efficiently while still savoring the open landscape. This route, ranked 5.8, balances accessibility with a modest challenge; it suits those looking to sharpen crack-climbing skills without extensive exposure, though the rock demands respect to avoid slips on slightly polished edges.
Timing your climb to mid-morning or afternoon can help avoid the sun’s sharpest rays, as the east-facing wall warms quickly. The approach consists of a straightforward walk from Vogel Canyon’s main trail, crossing mild scrub and packed earth, taking approximately 15 minutes from the parking area. Given the dry environment, hydration and sturdy footwear with good grip are essential preparation points.
To ensure a smooth climb, bring a full extents rack focusing on larger cams, practice clean gear placements, and scout the bolt anchor before committing to the top-out. Crack Right offers a direct line that both honed beginners and seasoned climbers can appreciate—its short length paired with distinct crack features makes for an efficient but satisfying push into trad climbing within a serene canyon setting.
Although the climb is short, take careful note of the bolt anchor condition and the minimal protection lower on the route. The dry environment reduces hazard from wet rock but leaves little margin for error with gear placements, so ensure your cams are snug and your movements controlled.
Approach via Vogel Canyon trailhead; expect a 15-minute walk over lightly scrubbed terrain.
The rock warms quickly in the sun; mornings and late afternoons offer the most comfortable climbing conditions.
Bring plenty of water and wear shoes with sticky rubber for secure footing on slightly polished edges.
Scout the bolted anchor before your top-out to plan your final moves and secure your rappel or lowering.
Expect to bring cams sized no smaller than a #2 BD C4 to adequately protect the parallel cracks lining the climb. A traditional rack emphasizing larger gear is essential for safe placements and to manage the bolted anchor safely at the top.
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