"Treading a steep chimney system up Yosemite’s iconic Elephant Rock, Crack of Doom offers a blend of sustained offwidths, jams, and a demanding final crux at 5.10a. A historic testpiece with clean rock and solid gear placements, it’s a challenge that rewards careful preparation and steady technique."
Carved into the rugged heart of Yosemite Valley, the Crack of Doom stands as a formidable test of skill and grit. Its steep chimney system slices sharply upward, inviting climbers into an intense dialogue with the granite’s jagged angles and natural formations. Though the final pitch demands a demanding 5.10a effort, much of this 500-foot climb flows through moderate 5.8 and 5.9 cracks, making it approachable yet unrelenting. The rock itself is famously clean and responsive to modern big cams, providing solid protection but requiring thoughtful placements when facing the more exposed sections.
Access begins along Highway 140, with parking available at pullouts downstream from the Cookie spot. From there, crossing the Lower Merced River is a critical condition-dependent move—only feasible when water levels are low. With the river daring you to find a safe passage, the journey climbs toward the Monster Boulder. From its right side, a faint trail marked by cairns threads upward, first passing boulder clusters before contouring eastward toward the base of the Worst Error Pinnacle. The terrain here is a mix of forested slopes and exposed ledges, demanding steady footing and some scrambling until a fixed rope helps ease the final ascent onto the ledge system that wraps around to Elephant Rock's west face.
The climb’s iconic base is a wide alcove dominated by twin crack systems—the Crack of Doom on the left and its sibling, Crack of Despair, on the right. Pitch one engages immediately with two start options: a 5.10b corner with intense finger locks and a challenging chockstone jug, or a 5.9 lieback variation on adjacent flakes. Both routes offer sharp, physical climbing that warms you for the long haul ahead. Pitch two opens into an expansive chimney where a single #6 Camalot guards an otherwise straightforward climb. You’ll ascend dinky cracks, chimneys, and offwidth jams between chockstones, moving up into a deep, protective recess for a well-earned belay.
The third pitch stretches long and grueling, with a narrowing chimney crux that tests your patience and finesse. Precise gear placements and strategic body positioning become vital as you wade through this bottleneck, inching toward the upper ledge. Beyond lies the final crux—an awkward corner bulge demanding awkward finger and hand jams, capped by a section of fractured, unstable rock. It’s a gritty finish that contrasts the otherwise solid granite and warns climbers to stay sharply focused to avoid missteps.
Descending is no casual stroll: rappelling calls for two ropes and careful route-finding. Scramble up shallow forested ramps but avoid wandering too high. Traverse left across exposed faces to reach ledges below the East Face. Previous climbers’ slings are often absent, so scouting suitable belay trees—like sturdy bay trees—is key. Multiple rappels, summing nearly 200 feet, ease you back down through a series of 3rd and 4th-class ledges to solid footing. This route demands respect not only on the wall but also in your careful exit.
Crack of Doom remains a slightly under-traveled slice of Yosemite history, its classic lines rewarding those prepared for its intensity. Bring big cams up to #6, be ready for river conditions to govern your approach, and prepare to engage a climb that balances physical challenge with technical finesse on some of the Valley’s finest clean stone.
Watch for loose blocks near the summit’s final crux section, where fractured rock necessitates cautious moves. The approach includes some exposed ledges and a fixed rope; less-experienced hikers should proceed carefully. River crossings depend on water level—never attempt when the current is strong.
Crossing the Lower Merced River is only safe at very low water levels; plan timing accordingly.
Park at pullouts downstream from the Cookie for easiest access.
The approach trail is faint and marked by cairns; navigation skills help to avoid wasting time.
Rappelling requires two ropes and solid anchor points—true two-rope rappel technique is recommended.
Standard trad rack up to 6 inches is essential, with extra 6-inch cams handy but optional. The route protects exceptionally well with modern large cams, but careful placements are required in the crux sections. Bring two ropes for descent rappels.
Upload your photos of Crack of Doom and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.