Crack of Despair commands attention along Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon, offering climbers a raw and gritty trad experience amid the park’s granite giants. Situated just east of the better-known Crack of Doom, this route traces a massive corner feature that soars 500 feet over three engaging pitches. The climb begins with a straightforward but gritty approach: either a scramble through an exposed scree slope or a more gradual trail starting at the Monster Boulder, weaving up to a fixed rope that ferries you onto a ledge system below the climb’s base. The ascent immediately demands focus as you navigate past forested interruptions to reach a dramatic double crack system. Here, offwidth technique takes the spotlight as you battle the crux, struggling to find a rest as the climb narrows and surfaces challenge your jam placements. Progressing through a flared chimney, you’ll clip fresh bolts and hang onto a chockstone jug before slipping into a wider, more forgiving chimney that swallows you in cool shade from the afternoon sun.

Pitch two intensifies with a deep chimney sequence that tests your perseverance and agility. At roughly 60 feet, the passage tightens considerably—lean climbers can slip through the back, but bulkier bodies must wrestle the flared offwidth zone with sustained effort, hovering around 5.10 difficulty. Beyond this choke point, the chimney opens again, transitioning to a more straightforward climb with rare pro opportunities—mental toughness as much as physical skill here. The route finishes by weaving through bay trees that cling stubbornly to the upper ledges, offering a vegetated reprieve before the summit. Most parties wrap up here due to gear or time, rappelling back down with double ropes.

Approaching Crack of Despair requires preparedness: the fixed rope on the slab demands careful negotiation and a keen eye for route finding to avoid the loose rock above. Bring a single rack of cams up to 6 inches to cover the varied cracks adequately. Protection placements can be sparse in the chimney, so a solid understanding of offwidth climbing is invaluable. Water, layered clothing, and sturdy boots will ease the approach scramble and potential exposure to changing weather, as this route sits exposed within a less trafficked corner of Yosemite National Park.

While the rock here is typical granite—solid but occasionally littered with trees and detritus on lower pitches—the experience is deeply rewarding for climbers who appreciate committing routes that strike a balance between technical challenge and raw engagement with the mountain. The route’s reputation for a sustained crux offwidth and demanding chimney sequences make it a compelling choice for those wanting to push their trad skills in one of California’s iconic climbing arenas. Descending requires care: rappelling the route with two ropes is straightforward, but an alternative exit involves a scramble eastward to the top of Real Error and a rappel from there, lending options depending on conditions and party size.

Crack of Despair stands out as a gritty, honest climb that strips back the charm of more polished Yosemite classics and replaces it with pure adventure. For climbers ready to navigate its jagged cracks and shadowed chimneys, it offers an unforgettable encounter with the raw vertical granite and a taste of the park’s quieter, less crowded southern face.