HomeClimbingCrack of a Thousand Echoes

Crack of a Thousand Echoes

Morrison, Colorado United States
trad gear
multi-pitch
chimney
offwidth
horizontal crack
bolt anchors
gear intensive
Colorado climbing
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Crack of a Thousand Echoes
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Experience the grit and grace of Colorado's Devil's Head on "Crack of a Thousand Echoes," a two-pitch trad climb that rewards careful technique and bold protection choices. Navigate dirty, jam-packed cracks and squeeze through a dramatic chimney that demands focus and finesse."

Crack of a Thousand Echoes

Carving a path through the rugged spires of Unicorn Valley, "Crack of a Thousand Echoes" invites climbers to engage with its raw, unpolished charm just south of the South Platte. This two-pitch trad climb stretches 300 feet into Colorado’s Devil's Head area, challenging adventurers to embrace a route that combines gritty contact and technical finesse. The opening 50 feet come marked with some inevitable dirt and debris—a reminder that nature shapes its own timeline. Yet this rough start quickly gives way to a series of compelling jams that test both hand and fist, setting the tone with a 5.8 crux that rewards persistence.

Beyond the initial pitch, climbers find themselves negotiating a cavernous tunnel beneath a massive, car-sized chockstone. Here, the rock feels alive as you peer up to the second squeeze chimney, another 5.8 crux that demands precise positioning and steady breathing. The chimney’s tight confines are a playground for smaller climbers, who can slip smoothly into the crack, while bigger climbers will need to manage their reach carefully. Protection is available on either side of the chimney, with horizontal cracks holding cams, but be prepared to place your #6 Camalot or Bigbro if you want peace of mind—running it out adds commitment.

The first pitch covers about 150 feet, ending at bolted anchors that offer well-earned security. The second pitch condenses the route’s heart into roughly 60 feet of challenging climbing, transitioning from a wide bottom into a demanding offwidth that requires creative body positioning and solid technique. This route doesn't just test strength—it beckons climbers to engage intimately with the rock’s texture and personality, the echo of each move a conversation between climber and canyon.

Approaching the climb requires a solid plan: the trail to the base navigates forested paths with occasional thorny brush, demanding sturdy footwear and attentiveness. Early starts are best to avoid afternoon heat, especially in summer when the sun glares down on exposed sections. Keep ample hydration, as the dry Colorado air can sap moisture quickly. At day's end, the descent is straightforward, with a rappel down from bolted anchors that rewards climbers with a moment of reflection overlooking the sprawling valley below.

"Crack of a Thousand Echoes" is a classic test piece for trad fans who appreciate a route blending exposed crack climbing with tactical gear placements. It’s a climb that calls for respect: patient cleaning, precise jams, and careful protection decisions. But the payoff is undeniable—a vivid encounter with Devil’s Head’s wild granite, and a tangible sense of having carved your own mark into a well-loved but demanding stone face.

Climber Safety

The route’s first 50 feet can be dirty and slippery—take your time cleaning. Protection in the chimney is limited; placing a large #6 Camalot or Bigbro is crucial to reduce runouts. The offwidth section demands careful technique to avoid muscle fatigue. The approach trail has some thorny brush—wear durable clothing and footwear.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the afternoon heat on exposed rock faces.

Bring sturdy boots for the approach trail, which includes steep and thorny sections.

Smaller climbers will find the chimney easier to navigate; larger climbers should be ready for a tight squeeze and careful gear placement.

Hydrate well—Colorado’s dry air can quickly dehydrate even moderate exertion.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated solidly at 5.9, this route offers a climb with a moderate challenge. The 5.8 cruxes feel appropriately rated, but the chimney section acts as a true physical and mental test, particularly because of its tightness and commitment due to gear scarcity. Compared to similar Devil's Head climbs, this feels well-balanced, neither soft nor overly stiff.

Gear Requirements

Essential trad rack with a #6 Camalot or Bigbro for the chimney section; smaller cams and standard rack recommended. Use bolted anchors for top-out rappels. Prepare for some initial cleaning and placements on horizontal cracks.

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Tags

trad gear
multi-pitch
chimney
offwidth
horizontal crack
bolt anchors
gear intensive
Colorado climbing