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Crack-a-Goo-Goo: A Compact Handjam Challenge in Poudre Canyon

Fort Collins, Colorado United States
hand jams
layback
wide crack
short route
lichen
Poudre Canyon
moderate trad
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad | TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Crack-a-Goo-Goo
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A short, technical crack climb near Fort Collins, Crack-a-Goo-Goo offers solid jams and a smooth layback finish. Perfect for honing handjam skills with reliable protection and a straightforward approach."

Crack-a-Goo-Goo: A Compact Handjam Challenge in Poudre Canyon

Crack-a-Goo-Goo stands as a modest yet satisfying climb tucked within the rugged confines of The Ripple sector in Greyrock, just beyond the edges of Fort Collins, Colorado. This one-pitch route, stretching roughly 30 feet, draws climbers who appreciate tight, technical crack work over sheer length or flashy moves. The climb begins on a ledge that immediately asks you to commit to wide fists, where the quartz and granite rock feels rough yet reliable beneath your hands and feet. Lichen dots the upper reaches but doesn’t compromise the quality; the rock remains sound, providing an honest challenge.

From the broader fists crack, your hands slide into progressively thinner jams — transitioning from fists to hands, then to thin hands — demanding steady technique and focus. The crack then subtly arches to the right, inviting a smooth layback that both tests strength and rewards precision. This subtle shift changes the effort, turning an initially straightforward jam into a nuanced sequence where body positioning is key to conserving energy.

Protection is straightforward but requires a thoughtful rack. For lead climbers aiming to secure their ascent, carrying a range of cams from 0.75 Camalot up to a #4 is highly recommended. The #4 is especially useful starting on the ledge, where placement options come quickly, allowing you to build confidence before the crack narrows. If top-roping, climbers can rely on natural anchors such as boulders or sturdy trees, making this route a convenient option for learning solid crack technique without hauling a heavy rack.

Approach to Crack-a-Goo-Goo is manageable for most, with a short trek through open pine and fir stands that whisper the promise of escape from city life. The route's location inside Poudre Canyon brings with it fresh mountain air and the sound of nearby water daring you to push forward. Climbers can expect a brisk 20-minute hike from the parking area, following a clear but rocky path that rewards attentiveness with quiet views of the distant peaks.

Summertime visits offer dappled sunlight through the canopy, warming the rock without baking it—a comfort during afternoon climbs. Spring and early fall provide cooler temps, ideal for those who prefer their fingers nimble and alert, though late season ascents might find the ledge mossier and more slippery. Always check conditions carefully before launching into the crack, as moisture or frost can dull your confidence and the rock’s friction.

In all, Crack-a-Goo-Goo is a concentrated encounter with classic Colorado crack climbing. It’s perfect for those refining handjam skills or seeking a quick, satisfying outing from Fort Collins. Its clear protection and straightforward approach make it accessible, while the technical subtleties keep even experienced climbers engaged. A short climb, but one with a satisfying punch.

Climber Safety

Watch for patches of lichen on the upper crack that may reduce friction. Ensure solid placements early on the ledge to avoid falls onto ledges below. Approach trail can be slippery after rain—take care on loose rocks.

Route Details

TypeTrad | TR
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Pack a rack with cams ranging from 0.75 to #4 for secure protection.

Expect lichen on the upper section; checking for firmness before trusting holds is wise.

Visit in late spring or early fall for optimal rock temperature and minimal slipperiness.

Approach trail is rocky but well-marked—wear sturdy footwear and allow 20 minutes from the parking area.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Crack-a-Goo-Goo delivers classic moderate crack climbing that feels true to grade. The crux centers on mastering the transition from wide fists to thin hand jams and a technical layback. It doesn't push beyond moderate difficulty but requires clean technique, especially at the bend right.

Gear Requirements

Leading climbers should assemble cams from 0.75 to #4 Camalot. The #4 cam offers key protection right off the ledge start. Top-rope setups can utilize nearby boulders and trees for solid anchors.

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Tags

hand jams
layback
wide crack
short route
lichen
Poudre Canyon
moderate trad