"Cow Bell is a focused trad climb in the scenic Devil’s Head region of Colorado’s South Platte area. Its blend of manageable offwidth and finger cracks provides a worthwhile challenge with solid protection and approachable height."
Cow Bell offers a distinct trad climbing experience on the rugged walls of The Crag Ranch, tucked in the heart of Colorado’s South Platte region. This 35-foot climb is a solid one-pitch route that calls for a mixture of technique and patience, providing climbers with a graceful balance of power and finesse. You start with a roomy offwidth crack, but skillful stemming along the back wall allows you to dodge most of the awkward chimney moves, making it accessible for those comfortable with wide climbing. As you ascend, the crack gradually tightens, transitioning from a bulky squeeze chimney to a slender finger crack, inviting you to shift your approach and hand placements.
The climb’s defining moment arrives near the top — pulling around a blocking boulder that guards the final moves. This crux requires a thoughtful combination of strength and precision to overcome, rewarding careful body positioning and an awareness of the rock’s subtle features. After surmounting this final hurdle, climbers can use the reliable anchors from the adjacent Shoo Fly route to descend safely.
Protection demands careful planning here. While an expansive rack dominated by large cams (BD C4 #6 or #5) offers the best security, smaller cams from size 4 down to 0.5 are also essential. However, placing a #5 cam can be tricky until you reach 10-15 feet up, so prioritizing a #6 cam can make your lead more comfortable and secure. The rock’s texture and natural placements reward an attentive rack setup, and this climb highlights the importance of preparation in offwidth and finger crack protection.
Approach to Cow Bell is straightforward from the established trails around The Crag Ranch within the Devil’s Head area. The terrain leads through piñon pine and scattered granite boulders, offering a moderate hike and clear landmarks. The location’s latitude and longitude put you right inside a Colorado climbing enclave known for its classic routes and approachable grades.
Whether you’re pairing it with its neighbor, Snare Drum, or climbing Cow Bell on its own, this route is a measured trade-off between awkward wide moves and technical finger cracks. It offers a rewarding test of crack climbing skills with manageable height and solid anchors, making it a favorite for climbers looking to sharpen their offwidth technique in a scenic, down-to-earth setting.
Watch your gear placements early on—while the wide sections feel roomy, proper cam sizing is essential to avoid slippage. The final pull around the block demands attention to foot placement and steady body tension; a fall here could be more serious if protection is scant or poorly placed.
Use stemming on the back wall to avoid most of the offwidth section comfortably.
Start the route well-hydrated to maintain focus on tricky protection placements.
Plan for the crux near the top where a block forces a powerful move around it.
Anchors are shared with Shoo Fly, so familiarize yourself with adjacent routes for descent.
Carry a rack heavy on large cams like BD C4 #6 or #5, supplemented by sizes down to 0.5. Although a #5 cam is part of the rack, it can be challenging to place until 10-15 feet up, so a #6 cam is highly recommended for improved security and confidence.
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