"Court Martial is a steep, single-pitch sport climb in Clark Canyon that tests crack climbing skills and stamina over 40 feet of solid granite. Perfect for climbers refining their 5.10a confidence with reliable bolt protection and a high-altitude backdrop."
Court Martial presents an intense, compact climb that challenges both technique and composure in one steep, technical pitch. Located in the rugged Sierra Eastside near Mammoth Lakes, this route begins in the shadow of the adjacent climb, Conduct Unbecoming, offering a clear starting point for climbers to find their rhythm. The climb immediately draws you into a narrow corner before veering left into a steep crack line, demanding precise footwork and steady hands. Bolted protection lines the route with five well-spaced anchors, providing confidence on this short but physical ascent. The rock texture is solid and sharp, giving good friction as you push upward. Expect a hands-on experience where the crack forces you to engage body tension and balance. Despite its short length of around 40 feet, the route packs in a sequence of moves that feel both athletic and technical.
The approach to Court Martial is straightforward yet takes you into a quiet part of Clark Canyon, where the high-altitude pine forest whispers with the breeze and the distant Sierra peaks stand watch. This isolated location rewards climbers with both tranquility and an unhurried sense of adventure. While the route may seem brief, it represents a focused burst of climbing intensity perfect for climbers looking to sharpen their redpoint skills on moderately challenging sport terrain. The 5.10a rating stands as a firm mark, with a climbing style that favors crack technique over pure face moves.
Preparation here is key: bring shoes with solid edging ability and stay hydrated—the dry air and altitude can sap energy faster than expected. Climbing in the morning ensures good sunlight on the wall and avoids the afternoon heat that can bake the granite. After topping out, don’t rush the descent; follow a short walk back down to base, minding loose rock and staying aware of changing weather. Court Martial’s mix of crack climbing and bolt security makes it an accessible yet demanding climb for those seeking to blend power and finesse on one pitch.
Stay vigilant for loose rock near the base and on the descent trail. The climb’s steep crack requires careful foot placement to avoid slips, and afternoon thunderstorms can develop quickly, making a timely retreat essential.
Approach early to catch morning sun and avoid afternoon heat.
Wear shoes with good crack edging to handle narrow hands and feet placements.
Hydrate well before climbing; the altitude and dry air can be taxing.
Check weather forecasts—afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer.
Five bolts protect the route, spread evenly to guard the steep crack sequence. Standard sport gear is sufficient; a medium-strength quickdraw rack covers it cleanly.
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