"Cottage Cheese is a single-pitch trad climb in Joshua Tree’s Real Hidden Valley that blends granite friction and crack climbing in a concise 50-foot route. It offers a brief but absorbing challenge with a rating of 5.9, ideal for those looking to sharpen trad skills in the iconic desert landscape."
Cottage Cheese offers a compact yet rewarding trad experience set within the iconic landscape of Joshua Tree National Park’s Upper Cow Rock area. As you approach the route, the rugged desert environment embraces you with its sharp, sunbaked granite and sweeping views that stretch out over the Real Hidden Valley. The climb begins similarly to the Milkman route but quickly veers left after the first bolt, charging up towards a second bolt before moving onto exposed face climbing to the top. At just 50 feet, this single-pitch climb delivers a concentrated dose of Joshua Tree’s classic granite friction and crack challenges.
The route carries a 5.9 rating, a comfortable yet engaging test requiring careful footwork and a steady hand on smoothed edges. Protection primarily consists of traditional gear placements up to 2 inches, complemented by two fixed bolts that provide anchors at key intervals. This blend of bolts and trad gear calls for a light but comprehensive rack, emphasizing flexibility in stemming, jamming, and face moves.
To reach Cottage Cheese, start from the marked trailhead leading to Upper Cow Rock. The trail is relatively straightforward, winding over arid scrub and occasional patches of shade offered by resilient desert plants. Allow about 30 minutes hiking time from the parking area, with GPS coordinates 34.01678 latitude and -116.17473 longitude guiding your final approach. The climb’s south-facing wall invites morning ascents to avoid the peak heat, with temperatures rising sharply in the afternoon sun.
Safety on this route means paying close attention to rock quality, especially on the upper face section where the granite loosens slightly around the bolts. Although the pitches are short, the exposure makes confident gear placement crucial — loose placements here can rapidly elevate risk. Descending is straightforward with a single rappel off the fixed anchors or a careful downclimb for experienced climbers comfortable with exposed scrambling.
This route is ideal for those looking to expand their trad repertoire with a short but spirited climb showcasing Joshua Tree’s distinct granite character without committing to a longer wall. Whether you’re honing crack techniques or savoring the desert’s open space and views, Cottage Cheese balances adventure with sound practical challenges born from its natural setting.
Prepare for the desert environment with adequate hydration, sturdy shoes offering friction, and sun protection. Timing your climb for early daylight hours amplifies comfort and safety, while keeping an eye on weather forecasts can help avoid sudden heat spikes.
Overall, Cottage Cheese is a solid 5.9 that feels true to grade, with a notable crux near the bolts that tests climbers’ steadiness on less featured granite. Compared to other climbs nearby, it offers a slightly softer approach but still demands respect for its exposure and protection style. A worthy addition to the Upper Cow Rock climbing repertoire for those seeking a quick dose of desert trad excitement.
Careful gear placements are essential where the rock loosens near the bolts — don’t underestimate the exposure above this section. The descent involves a single rappel off fixed anchors or a downclimb on exposed terrain, so double-check your anchor setup and avoid loose rock on the approach and route.
Start early to avoid the harsh afternoon sun on this south-facing wall.
Bring sunscreen and plenty of water to stay hydrated in the desert heat.
Check your placements thoroughly near the bolts where rock can be slightly loose.
Use a set of cams and nuts up to 2 inches, as protection opportunities are limited and require precision.
Gear up with a standard trad rack incorporating nuts and cams up to 2 inches. Two fixed bolts provide solid anchors but relying on trad placements is essential, especially on the face climbing above the bolts. Sturdy shoes with good friction are key to confidently navigating the smoothed granite sections.
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