HomeClimbingCosmic Teacup

Cosmic Teacup: A Sport Climb in Ontario’s Easy Way Down Sector

Calabogie, Ontario Canada
sport climb
slabby face
mantle start
exposed bolt
short pitch
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cosmic Teacup
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cosmic Teacup delivers a compelling sport climb at Ontario’s Easy Way Down Sector, mixing a technical mantle start with a clean slab. This route challenges your balance and gear confidence, all within a short, engaging pitch framed by the rugged Main Cliff."

Cosmic Teacup: A Sport Climb in Ontario’s Easy Way Down Sector

Cosmic Teacup offers an engaging introduction to the Easy Way Down Sector’s Main Cliff, inviting climbers with a blend of technical moves and a subtle mental challenge. The route begins with a dynamic mantle that sets a lively tone, requiring precise footwork and balance. As you transition to the slabby wall, the rock’s smooth texture asks for steady control and focus. The second bolt introduces a moment of exposure where confidence in your gear and technique becomes crucial. While the face can feel sparse at first, each hold rewards careful attention and commitment. Beyond the fourth bolt, the path might seem unclear, but the anchor patiently waits just above the ridge, reachable with significantly less effort than the route preceding it. Four bolts and a fixed anchor with rings make this a solid sport climb, suitable for climbers comfortable with moderate risk and an unpolished slab challenge. Located in Calabogie, Ontario, this climb is both accessible and memorable, offering a brief yet satisfying foray into sport climbing with a local flavor.

Climber Safety

Watch your footing on the slabby sections where holds are minimal and slip risk can increase. The second bolt’s exposure means clipping there requires calm and precision. Approach the hidden anchor cautiously – it’s accessible but not immediately visible.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start fresh to handle the mantle’s technical demands smoothly.

Clip efficiently and confidently at the second bolt; the exposure can be unsettling.

The route’s subtle slab requires deliberate foot placement — patience is key.

Locate the hidden anchor just above the ridge; it’s easier to reach than it appears.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Graded 5.9, Cosmic Teacup feels slightly stiffer around the mantle and slab transitions than the number suggests. The second bolt’s exposure bumps the mental challenge, demanding steadiness more than raw power. Compared to nearby climbs in the sector, it sits at a moderate difficulty for those familiar with slab climbing and sport protection.

Gear Requirements

Four bolts to clip, finishing with a fixed anchor outfitted with rings. No additional protection needed, but be aware of exposed sections near the second bolt.

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Tags

sport climb
slabby face
mantle start
exposed bolt
short pitch