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Cosmic Chimney Right at Mt. Zirkel Wilderness

Steamboat Springs, Colorado United States
chimney
trad gear
alpine
single pitch
homemade nuts
natural anchors
granite face
Steamboat Springs
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cosmic Chimney Right
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cosmic Chimney Right offers a concise alpine trad climb near Steamboat Springs with a blend of chimney jams and solid 5.8 face moves. Perfect for climbers seeking a sharp technical challenge in classic Colorado granite."

Cosmic Chimney Right at Mt. Zirkel Wilderness

Rising just north of Steamboat Springs, the Cosmic Chimney Right route at Peak 11,777 offers a compact yet memorable alpine trad climb that rewards steady hands and sharp eyes. Beginning with a modest 5.6 chimney pitch, the climb quickly shifts into more technical 5.8 face moves that demand careful footwork and focused protection placement. The chimney itself challenges you to maneuver through tight granite features, the rock cool and textured beneath your fingertips. Once you've topped this natural funnel, you transition right to a slab of solid stone punctuated by subtle crimps and small ledges. Here, the route teases out tricky jams and delicate stemming that require a confident approach to nut placements — many of which are perfectly sized for homemade pieces. Protection is a thoughtful dance between natural flakes and chockstones; the rock wears its protection well if you move deliberately, with minimal chalk marks betraying the less frequented ascents.

The wall bears an alpine temperament, exposed to brisk mountain winds and late-morning sun that gradually warms the face, making late spring through early fall the best window for your ascent. The approach is straightforward with well-defined terrain leading from forested paths into a granite amphitheater. The climb, though short at roughly 100 feet, packs enough variety to hold the interest of climbers who appreciate quality over quantity. After reaching the top, a clean rappel off natural anchors or chockstones eases your exit.

Caution is warranted in assessing the homemade nuts and runners — solid placements are available but require careful evaluation, particularly on the face section. The area’s remoteness invites a quieter day out, offering sweeping views over the Mt. Zirkel Wilderness and a chance to engage with Colorado’s rugged high country without throngs of climbers around. Prepare with sturdy footwear for the rocky approach and sufficient hydration for changing mountain conditions. Whether you’re brushing up on chimney techniques or seeking a quick alpine fix near Steamboat, Cosmic Chimney Right delivers a hands-on experience that balances technical climbing with scenic reward.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose chips on the face section and double-check homemade nuts for secure placements. The rappel relies on natural flakes, so always inspect anchors closely and back them up when possible.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid warming sun on the face and afternoon thunderstorms.

Bring a full set of nuts including smaller sizes to maximize gear placements on the face.

The approach trail is rocky but well-marked; sturdy footwear and trekking poles help.

Scout your rappel anchors before committing; natural flakes are solid but require inspection.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on Cosmic Chimney Right feels true-to-grade, leaning toward the moderate side. The initial chimney pitch runs easier, but the face to the right contains a crux with demanding technical moves that elevate the challenge. Climbers familiar with nearby Mt. Zirkel trad routes will find this a balanced test that doesn't overreach but requires solid protection skills.

Gear Requirements

Homemade nuts paired with runners and a few biners form the backbone of your protection. Belays rely on natural flakes and chockstones, highlighting the need for savvy gear placement and confidence in natural anchors.

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Tags

chimney
trad gear
alpine
single pitch
homemade nuts
natural anchors
granite face
Steamboat Springs