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Corner Crack at Split Rock: A Short Trad Challenge in Ring Mountain

San Francisco, California United States
crack climb
beginner trad
short pitch
stopper placements
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Corner Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Corner Crack is a compact trad route at Split Rock in Ring Mountain, offering a concise challenge with solid placements and a secure finish. Ideal for beginners looking to sharpen their gear skills or climbers seeking a quick and rewarding ascent."

Corner Crack at Split Rock: A Short Trad Challenge in Ring Mountain

Set against the rugged backdrop of Ring Mountain, the Corner Crack route invites climbers to engage directly with stone that demands attention and respect. This short, single-pitch climb rises 30 feet, combining straightforward moves with clutch placements that reward steadiness and focus. The route opens with a blind stopper placement tucked to the left—an invitation to trust your gear and instincts before committing upward. Climbers find a comfortable stance midway, providing a brief moment to recalibrate before setting a smaller nut for protection and pushing towards the summit. It’s not a climb that overwhelms with length or complexity, but its compact nature delivers quality technique work and a gratifying finish.

Positioned in Northern California’s San Francisco Bay Area, Split Rock offers a welcome escape for those seeking a quick, trad-focused outing close to the city. The rock’s texture is solid, lending confidence to placements and footwork alike. Weather plays its part here; clear skies bring the warming sun to the face, while the openness of the approach allows for a steady breeze that cuts the heat during summer climbs.

Protection is minimal but essential—equipping yourself with two to three stoppers offers enough coverage to keep the ascent safe without clutter or complication. This route appeals to emerging trad climbers looking to hone gear skills in a comfortable scene, as well as seasoned climbers craving an accessible challenge without demanding endurance. Split Rock’s approachable setting means less time navigating trails and more time engaging with the rock itself.

For those planning a trip, consider mornings or late afternoons to avoid the direct sun during warmer months. Footwear with solid edging abilities will serve well on the varied texture of the stone, and always carry enough water for comfort, as the area lacks shade on approach paths. While brief, this climb provides an honest dose of friction and crack climbing tactics, making it a worthwhile stop for those passing through Ring Mountain’s diverse climbing spots.

Beyond the climb, the surrounding landscape stretches wide with views of the greater San Francisco Bay, offering a panoramic reward after the vertical effort. Though short, Corner Crack grants a refreshing taste of trad climbing’s essentials, set in a quietly powerful location that asks only that you show up prepared and ready to move with the rock.

Climber Safety

Blind stopper placements require climbers to double-check gear security before moving upward; rock is solid but the route’s short length gives little room for error if protection is missed. Approach paths are exposed with limited shade—avoid the midday heat.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid heat; the rock faces the sun by midday.

Stick to solid footing shoes with good edging capability.

Limit gear to a few essential stoppers to keep moves uncluttered.

Hydrate well; there is little shade on the approach trail.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels fair and approachable, with a mild crux just after placing the initial blind stopper. The difficulty is accessible but demands steady gear placement and crack technique. Compared to nearby Ring Mountain climbs, Corner Crack is a softer introduction without sacrificing engagement.

Gear Requirements

Solo climbers can handle this route, but bringing 2 to 3 stoppers is recommended for added security and peace of mind during the ascent.

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Tags

crack climb
beginner trad
short pitch
stopper placements