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Corn Flakes Trad Climb at Middle Spire, Lake Tahoe

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
flake
face climb
roof crux
trad
single pitch
granite
wildlife encounters
Lake Tahoe
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Corn Flakes
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A compact yet technically rewarding 5.9 trad climb, Corn Flakes combines crack finesse with face climbing under a subtle roof. Located at Middle Spire in Tahoe’s Highway 50 Corridor, it’s perfect for climbers refining trad skills amid quiet wilderness."

Corn Flakes Trad Climb at Middle Spire, Lake Tahoe

Just off the beaten path in the Highway 50 Corridor near Lake Tahoe, Corn Flakes offers a focused, single-pitch trad climb that challenges both your technique and composure. From the base, you engage with a distinctive flake feature poised to the right of the more commonly attempted Lean and Mean. The flake demands precise footwork and balance, its surface rough and inviting under your fingers. After mastering this crux, the climb transitions to a face climb leading up to a modest roof, where a horizontal obstacle tests your positioning and commitment. As you navigate leftward following Lean and Mean’s line, the crack visibly narrows, and climbers often share that the route has quirky wildlife companions, such as bats, adding a fleeting but vivid moment to your ascent.

This climb is compact and straightforward but offers a satisfying taste of classic California trad. Protection is straightforward with gear placements up to 2 inches, though the quality and spacing require some attention and confidence in subtle placements. Corn Flakes demands a blend of crack climbing finesse and face position skill, making it ideal for climbers looking to sharpen trad fundamentals without a lengthy approach.

The Middle Spire area is quiet and raw, providing a focused climbing experience away from crowded trailheads. The granite here holds a solid texture, granting secure grips though occasionally coated in dust during the dry months. Approaches are manageable, weaving through forested terrain and patches of open granite slabs that offer rewarding views over the surrounding Tahoe wilderness. Prepare for swiftly changing mountain weather patterns by starting early and carrying layers.

Because this climb is short, many climbers use it as a warm-up or skill-tuning route before tackling longer spires nearby. The 5.9 rating feels fair and balanced—demanding, but accessible to those versed in crack climbing and comfortable with a roof maneuver. Keep in mind that gear placements are reliable but sparse; this climb rewards careful, patient protection skills.

If you're heading to this slice of Tahoe granite, bring a standard trad rack but emphasize smaller cams and nuts up to 2 inches. Footwear with sticky rubber and a bit of edging capability will serve well on the face sections. Hydration matters here; water fills are limited around Jungle Lake, so pack accordingly. Timing your climb in the late spring through early fall will provide the best mix of warmth and dry rock. Descents require a straightforward walk-off or single rappel. Always scout the anchors before trusting them fully, as this is a lesser-traveled route with limited fixed gear.

Corn Flakes invites climbers into a focused, technical experience that balances natural features with strategic gear placements. Whether you’re brushing up on your crack technique or enjoying a textured single pitch in the Tahoe backcountry, this route offers a rewarding challenge framed by pine-scented air and an expansive mountain horizon.

Climber Safety

Watch carefully for loose rock around the roof section and verify the stability of all gear placements. Approach in dry conditions and avoid climbing late in the day to reduce the risk of encountering bats or wildlife startled by your presence.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon sun on west-facing granite slabs.

Carry hydration; water sources near Jungle Lake can be scarce.

Check for local wildlife in cracks, especially bats at dusk.

Scout anchors carefully; fixed gear is minimal to non-existent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here matches the climb’s technical demands well. The crack and flake sequence requires solid foot jams and balance, while the roof adds a short but punchy crux. Compared to nearby routes like Lean and Mean, Corn Flakes is slightly more technical in gear placement and moves, offering a balanced challenge for intermediate trad climbers.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack to 2-inch cams recommended. Protection opportunities are solid but require careful placement in narrow cracks and flakes. No fixed gear reported, so bring your full rack and clean placements.

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Tags

flake
face climb
roof crux
trad
single pitch
granite
wildlife encounters
Lake Tahoe