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Corkscrew: A Bold Sport Climb on Mount St. Helena’s Red Rock

Calistoga, California United States
jug holds
overhang
slab finish
sport climb
single pitch
California
volcanic rock
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Corkscrew
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Corkscrew stands out as a bold single-pitch sport climb on the vibrant red rock of Mount St. Helena. Its juggy overhangs and confident movement offer an accessible yet thrilling introduction to a volcanic landscape framed by California’s famed wine country."

Corkscrew: A Bold Sport Climb on Mount St. Helena’s Red Rock

Corkscrew offers a brisk yet rewarding climb set against the striking red rock of Mount St. Helena. The route immediately engages you with steep, jug-laden features demanding steady hands and assertive movement. As you surge upward, the climb transitions onto a shelf that offers a brief moment to restore your breath and take in the surrounding landscape. Then comes the defining stretch: a wildly featured, overhanging arete that pushes your grip and balance with generous jugs that invite confident movement rather than hesitation. Finishing on a slab, climbers are greeted by hand-forged chain anchors providing reliable security for the topout. Although just a single pitch, Corkscrew’s combination of steepness and accessible holds creates an experience where excitement meets control—perfect for those stepping into the realm of moderate sport climbs.

Located within the expansive Black Tower area, Corkscrew captures the raw volcanic essence of Kimball Canyon. The route’s bright red stone contrasts sharply with the sprawling greens of Wine Country beyond, giving climbers both a tactile challenge and a visual reward. Expect sun to warm the wall for much of the day, making early morning or late afternoon sessions ideal during California’s warmer months. This climb’s modest length of 60 feet means it’s a quick but memorable adventure, best approached with solid sport climbing shoes and a confident mindset.

Aside from the physical challenge, the route’s protection is straightforward, anchored by six solid bolts and a chain anchor at the top. This makes it a dependable choice for climbers looking to sharpen sport technique without the concerns of tricky gear placements. Approach trails weave through dry chaparral and volcanic rubble, giving the hike-in a gritty character that matches the boldness of the climb itself. Remember to stay hydrated and protect yourself from the sun, especially during summer when the southern exposure can intensify.

Corkscrew rewards those seeking an approachable yet stimulating climb that embodies the rugged spirit of Northern California’s volcanic landscape. It’s an ideal introduction for confident climbers eager to push their limits on steep jugs while soaking in panoramic views of wine country rolling out beneath the peak. This climb delivers a focused dose of adventure that leaves you ready for whatever challenge comes next.

Climber Safety

The red volcanic rock is generally stable but can be dusty or crumbly near the base—exercise caution on the approach and avoid dislodging loose rock. The exposed southern face calls for sun protection and attention to hydration, especially in warmer seasons.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid peak heat; southern exposure gets hot by midday.

Wear sport climbing shoes with good edging ability for the slab finish.

Hydrate thoroughly before the climb; the approach is dry and exposed.

Bring a small brush to keep jugs clear of dust and sand.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:At 5.9, Corkscrew is a solid mid-level sport route that balances steep overhangs with generous holds. While the grade feels true to form, the sustained arete demands careful positioning and grip endurance. Compared with other routes in Kimball Canyon, it offers a friendly yet invigorating challenge that’s ideal for climbers refining their sport technique.

Gear Requirements

Six bolts protect the climb, topped by a secure chain anchor. This straightforward bolt sequence alleviates the need for additional gear, letting you focus entirely on your climb.

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Tags

jug holds
overhang
slab finish
sport climb
single pitch
California
volcanic rock