"Coonyard Pinnacle stands as a respected trad route on Glacier Point Apron, blending technical 5.9 moves with natural granite features. This five-pitch climb offers both a test of skill and a connection to Yosemite’s raw granite landscape."
Rising steadily on the southern apron of Glacier Point, the Coonyard Pinnacle is a steadfast trad route that challenges both your technique and resolve across five pitches of varied Yosemite classic climbing. Named somewhat ironically after Yvon Chouinard—though he never climbed it—this route has been a staple for climbers seeking a blend of careful route-finding and exposed face climbing on solid granite. From the moment you step onto the first pitch, your fingers connect with the subtle pockets and edges that define its character, forcing you into a precise mantle that stands as the technical highlight of the entire climb.
Pitch one demands commitment. The crux, rated at 5.9, asks you to reach for that inviting pocket and then rise up onto a small ledge, a move that quickly separates casual scrambling from deliberate climbing. Once established at the belay, pitch two eases into a 5.8 run past a bolt, traversing the right side of the ledge before pressing upward to a small pinnacle. You'll find your belay again secured by a bolt, a reminder that this route combines natural protection with strategic hardware.
Climbers then face pitch three, another 5.9 segment, which diverges left into a traverse towards a two-bolt anchor. The exposure here is heightened. The granite feels alive beneath your fingertips, cool and rough, daring you to maintain focus while your eyes drift to the sweeping valley below.
Pitch four once held a reputation for spine-tingling exposure—40 feet of unprotected 5.8/5.9 climbing up an open slab. Today, the presence of a well-placed bolt softens the sting, offering reassurance without dulling the thrill. It’s the kind of pitch that tests your nerve and footwork, rewarding those who trust their gear and body as one.
The final pitch is a shorter 5.6 climb up a right-facing dihedral that leads to the top of the pinnacle. It’s a satisfying conclusion that gives a moment to breathe, appreciate the sunlit walls, and feel the pulse of Yosemite’s grandeur around you.
Prepare for this route with a complete set of stoppers and cams up to 2 inches—you’ll need the right protection to complement the bolts and secure your confidence. The approach is relatively straightforward but requires firm footing on the Glacier Point apron, a wide granite expanse that stretches out beneath the towering valley walls.
Coonyard Pinnacle rewards climbers who appreciate a balanced trad line with a mix of technical moves and measured protection. It’s an accessible classic for those stepping up from lower grades and a worthy challenge for seasoned Yosemite regulars. Keep your shoes snug, your rack ready, and your senses sharp—the granite here commands respect but offers pure, elemental climbing in return.
Be mindful of potential runouts between protection points, particularly on pitch four. The granite here can be slippery under wet conditions, and loose rock is rarely an issue but stay vigilant. The approach and descent include some steep sections where footing can be uncertain, so wear durable footwear and consider a helmet for rockfall protection.
Begin early to avoid heat on the sun-exposed Glacier Point Apron.
Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber for the subtle granite edges and pockets.
Double-check all gear placements on the runout fourth pitch to maintain security.
Stay aware of rockfall hazards on approach and descent, especially after rain.
A full trad rack featuring stoppers and cams up to 2 inches is necessary. While the route includes bolts, careful placements will be required on all pitches, especially pitch four, which features limited fixed protection.
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