HomeClimbingCool Arrow

Cool Arrow: A Classic Trad Climb in the San Bernardino Mountains

Running Springs, California United States
face climbing
hand crack
micro-wires
single pitch
5.9
trad
San Bernardino Mountains
California
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cool Arrow
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Cool Arrow offers a crisp, single-pitch trad climb in the San Bernardino Mountains. This 5.9 route tests face climbing technique and crack finesse, with carefully placed micro-wires protecting a challenging traverse and a rewarding hand crack finish."

Cool Arrow: A Classic Trad Climb in the San Bernardino Mountains

Cool Arrow invites climbers into the rugged heart of the San Bernardino Mountains, where face holds meet delicate cracks in a climb that rewards careful movement and steady nerves. This single-pitch 5.9 trad route sits on Untch Rock near Crafts Peak, within the textured landscape of Green Valley Lake and the greater Running Springs area. The climb starts with a precise face sequence guarded by micro-wires, demanding attentive gear placement and solid footwork. After negotiating this technical section, a bold horizontal crack stretches left, offering a short but engaging traverse that not only tests balance but also sets up the exciting hand crack finish leading all the way to the summit.

The rock here is firm and offers confidence-inspiring friction, ideal for climbers who want to sharpen crack skills without wandering too far into runout terrain. Protection calls for gear up to 3 inches including micro-wires, emphasizing versatility and a keen eye on placements. A bolted anchor anchors the top, allowing for a smooth rappel or a careful walk-off down the backside.

Accessing Cool Arrow is a straightforward approach, threading through a high-desert environment that shifts between open rocky stretches and scrubby pines. Approaching climbers will find the trail well marked, taking about 20 minutes from the nearest parking area. The sun’s angle favors an early start in spring or fall, when temperatures lend themselves perfectly to cooler, more focused climbing without the summer heat pressing in.

This climb caters well to motivated beginners looking to push into solid 5.9 territory and seasoned adventurers who appreciate a route where protection and movement are equally rewarded. With only a handful of votes averaging 2.5 stars, the route stays somewhat off the radar, offering a quiet dose of adventure without the crowds often found in California’s better-known climbing hubs. Whatever your experience, Cool Arrow promises an engaging, practical challenge amidst natural beauty and clear blue mountain skies.

For those planning their day, bring plenty of water, sturdy shoes with good toe edging, and a rack balanced between smaller micro-wire sized cams and mid-sized gear. Timing is essential—aim to climb before the afternoon sun warms the exposed rock, especially late spring through early fall. The descent is straightforward but keep an eye on loose stones and be prepared for a short rappel. A detailed beta section below offers a step-by-step breakdown to make your ascent smooth and successful.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose stone at the top and on the descent. The micro-wire placements on the face require careful checking, so take time to evaluate gear before committing to moves. The bolted anchor is secure but rappel with caution, avoiding potential rockfall impact zones.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on exposed rock.

Bring a full rack with emphasis on micro-wires and cams to 3 inches.

Approach from the north parking area for the shortest trailhead access.

Be alert for loose stones during descent rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, Cool Arrow strikes a balance between technical face moves and crack climbing. The grade feels fairly true to classic 5.9 difficulty, with the start requiring precise micro-wire placements that raise the mental challenge slightly. The horizontal traverse adds a fun complexity without upping the technical grade. Compared to other nearby trad routes, this climb offers a solid mid-range test with no surprise cruxes but demands steady technique.

Gear Requirements

Micro-wires are essential for the delicate face climbing section; bring gear up to 3 inches to protect the horizontal and hand cracks. A bolted anchor is in place for rap descent.

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Tags

face climbing
hand crack
micro-wires
single pitch
5.9
trad
San Bernardino Mountains
California