"Cookie Left Side is a two-pitch trad climb in Yosemite's Lower Merced River Canyon, known for a straightforward chimney pitch followed by a challenging off-width flare that demands tactical moves and sturdy gear—all set against serene views and granite walls."
Cookie Left Side stands as a compelling two-pitch trad climb tucked into Yosemite National Park’s Lower Merced River Canyon, a notable section within the sprawling expanse of the Yosemite Valley. This route offers an engaging blend of straightforward chimney work and a demanding off-width flare that challenges the climber’s technique and mental grit without resorting to flashy moves. The initial pitch ascends approximately 50 feet through a clean, overhanging chimney rated at 5.9, providing a solid warm-up before the route deepens into more technical territory. Climbers reach a spacious ledge here, a welcome resting spot before the crux pitch.
The second pitch intensifies with a left off-width that begins somewhat accommodating but quickly narrows into a stubborn flare that resists easy squeezing, particularly for average-sized climbers. The crux demands a tactical shift: starting physical presence on the right side to exploit a layback and groove on the face’s left aspect, a move that separates those comfortable with off-width technique from those who hesitate. This section pushes the grade to a strenuous 5.10a, offering a real test of endurance and gear placement. Protection is primarily powered by large cams, including #6 and #5 sizes, as smaller pro fails to secure adequately inside the flare. Chalk and patience are your best allies here.
Situated in the broader Cookie Cliff area, this climb shares its base zone with routes leading to Nabisco Wall, making logistics straightforward for climbers aiming to extend their day with additional pitches or lines. The approach is a moderate trek through forested trails along the Lower Merced, with granite edges framing the scenic backdrop and the river whispering close by. For those seeking an authentic Yosemite trad experience without the crowds of the Valley’s blockbuster routes, Cookie Left Side delivers with quiet intensity and a striking natural setting.
When planning your climb, consider early starts to avoid the mid-day sun that often bakes the canyon walls, particularly in late spring and through the summer months. The rock holds heat and can tire forearms faster if cooled respite isn’t available on the shaded ledge. Footwear with sticky soles and a comfortable fit is essential, given the chimney’s dynamic foot jams and the off-width’s aggressive body positions. Carry extra water, as the non-technical approach does not have reliable water sources.
In sum, Cookie Left Side offers a blend of hands-on crack climbing and physical maneuvers in a classic Yosemite granite setting that rewards persistence and preparation. The balance of accessible to challenging terrain makes it an excellent choice for trad climbers seeking to sharpen their off-width skills while enjoying the serenity and rawness of one of America’s premier climbing destinations.
The flare on the second pitch is a tight off-width climb with limited protection options; improper gear placement or hesitation in the crux can escalate risks. The ledge at the end of pitch one is spacious but exposed to the sun—stay hydrated and aware of rockfall potential when above.
Start early to avoid intense midday sun on the chimney and ledge.
Bring plenty of water; there are no reliable water sources on approach.
Wear shoes with good toe and heel edging for chimney jams and laybacks.
Practice off-width techniques before tackling pitch 2’s flare crux.
Essential large protection including two #6 and two #5 cams is required for the off-width flare on pitch 2. Bring your full rack for the upper Nabisco pitches if continuing beyond, but large cams dominate protection on this route.
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