Coogee Crack offers a sharp, focused slice of Squamish trad climbing that demands precise hand and finger jams on a tight, unforgiving line. Set against a darkened face 75 feet left of the well-known Slot Machine route, this single-pitch climb cuts a clean finger-sized fissure up the rock, inviting climbers who relish technical finesse over brute strength. The wall’s shadowed aspect creates a cooler climbing environment, providing relief on warmer days while maintaining solid friction on the granite surface.

At 30 feet in length, the route isn’t a marathon, but punchy moves packed into a brief, intense stretch. The crack’s narrow width calls for a delicate touch, requiring small nuts and cams to build a reliable protection setup. The climb rewards rhythm and precise foot placement, showcasing Squamish’s classic granite features – crisp edges, subtle flakes, and the tactile satisfaction of sliding fingers into constricted jams.

Approaching the base means threading through The Chief’s sprawling network of faces but here at Bulletheads South, the atmosphere is quieter and less trafficked. The area appeals to climbers who want to escape crowds for a moment of introspective focus on technical crack climbing. A brief 10 to 15-minute walk from established parking zones leads to a rocky but straightforward approach trail, marked by sparse forest lining and occasional views to the north.

This route’s rating of 5.10c signals a solid test for crack climbers comfortable with finger jams, requiring steady commitment and a willingness to carefully place smaller gear under subtle stances. Compared with other local climbs, Coogee Crack feels well-protected but demands clean technique—the crux is more about precision than power, with gear placements dictating the pace.

Consider climbing here in the spring or late summer when temperature and humidity are optimal, avoiding the wet, mossy stretches common in fall and winter. Footwear with sticky rubber and snug fit will facilitate confident edging on slick granite features. Be sure to tape fingers if you’re prone to skin irritation, as the narrow crack edges can be abrasive.

Descent is relatively straightforward: a short walk off the face leads back to the main trail. Climbers should remain vigilant of loose rock near the base and avoid dropping gear. The rock quality is generally sound but watch for occasional scalings after heavy weather.

In sum, Coogee Crack offers a tense yet rewarding experience for those craving a taste of Squamish’s technical trad style in a compact package, perfect for an afternoon push or a technical warm-up on quieter Bulletheads South rock.