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Convolutions of Felicia: A Bold Arete in Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
arete
single pitch
trad climbing
small gear
bolt protection
granite slab
exposed moves
smoke bluffs
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Convolutions of Felicia
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Tackle the clean, exposed arete of Convolutions of Felicia for a single-pitch trad climb that demands thoughtful gear placement and steady technique. This 5.10c route offers a compact but intense climbing experience high in the Smoke Bluffs, set against the backdrop of Squamish's rugged beauty."

Convolutions of Felicia: A Bold Arete in Smoke Bluffs

Convolutions of Felicia offers a sharp, focused test on the right-hand arete just beyond the familiar route Twenty Minute Workout. This single-pitch trad climb slices through Smoke Bluffs’ distinctive granite, demanding confident movement along edges and subtle crimps with a blend of finger strength and precise footwork. The climb immediately engages you with scant opportunities for gear, save for a carefully placed bolt high up that stands sentinel over the upper wall, giving a rare fixed protection point in an otherwise gear-sparse run. Below this bolt, small gear may be tucked into a thin horizontal crack, but protection remains minimal, requiring mental steadiness and a solid plan before you commit.

The slabby terrain is firm granite, rough to the touch, providing excellent friction underfoot that invites deliberate, balanced climbing rather than brute force. At about 50 feet, the route challenges you not only with its technical demands but with the commitment that comes from limited protective options—the kind of route where controlling fear becomes part of the climbing dance. The arete itself leans slightly outward, coaxing you outward into exposed moves that reward careful attention to body position and breathing.

Smoke Bluffs’ location just under the towering Howe Sound skyline means you’re surrounded by an atmosphere rich with natural drama: pine-scented air, distant water lapping softly, and the quiet hum of forest life framing your ascent. The climb’s concise length belies the intensity packed into each move, making it perfect for climbers seeking a focused challenge rather than an endurance trial.

Approach is straightforward, set within the well-maintained trails of High Cliff provincial park. Hikers and climbers alike share these paths, weaving through gentle stands of fir and cedar before the granite faces rise sharply against the sky. The moderate walk takes about 15 minutes from the main parking area, with clear signage leading you to the climbing zones.

Given the route’s protection scarcity, it’s essential to bring a full rack but be prepared to rely on the single bolt and a couple of small nuts or cams. A longer draw for the bolt placement helps reduce rope drag on the outcropping arete. Descending is flexible: rappelling from anchors or downclimbing with care are both viable, though attention to locked-off ropes and solid anchor checks is critical.

This climb suits those confident in leading moderate 5.10 trad routes, looking to engage with Smoke Bluffs’ character without the need for multiple pitches. It’s a solid addition to your itinerary, pairing technical slab movement with the fresh mountain air and community spirit this Canadian climbing area offers. Plan your session in the morning or late afternoon for balanced light and comfort, avoiding the mid-day sun that can warm the granite intensely, especially in summer.

Climber Safety

Protection is sparse below the high bolt, with only a small horizontal crack for gear. Misplaced gear here can lead to dangerous falls. Always triple-check placements and avoid falling onto the arete’s edges. Anchors are solid but confirm all hardware before rappelling.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the heat that bakes the granite around midday.

Double-check your gear placements below the bolt—the horizontal crack takes smaller cams best.

Carry a longer runner for the bolt to reduce rope drag out on the arete.

Be prepared for a straightforward 15-minute approach; stay on marked trails to protect the area.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c rating is spot on for the delicate balance between technical slab moves and limited protection. The bolt near the top eases the commitment a bit, but the runout below demands solid footwork and nerve. Compared to other Smoke Bluffs routes at this grade, Convolutions of Felicia feels like a focused technical challenge rather than an endurance test, rewarding precision and mental composure.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack focused on small to medium cams and nuts. A quickdraw for the high bolt is essential to minimize rope drag on the arete. Anchors are fixed at the top for an easy rappel or walk-off.

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Tags

arete
single pitch
trad climbing
small gear
bolt protection
granite slab
exposed moves
smoke bluffs