Three Roofs stands as a compelling trad climb in the heart of Banff National Park, offering five pitches of varied terrain that challenge both technique and endurance. Starting on a demanding 5.10c face climb, the route immediately engages you with its sharp edges and compelling holds. The first pitch, roughly 35 meters, leads to a large, overhanging roof—here, a strategic swing left sets the tone, guiding you upward onto a slab that tests balance and footwork before reaching a bolted anchor. The second pitch mirrors this difficulty, combining another roof climb with solid rest spots that let your chalk bag catch a brief reprieve while plotting your ascent.

Pitch three drops the intensity with a 5.7 crack that invites you to link up with the adjacent Sea of Dreams route. Here, crack climbing intertwines with face moves, encouraging a mix of jamming and friction techniques, a refreshing change from the roof assaults. The fourth pitch shifts right, stepping away from the crack and atop exposed face runnels that dare you to maintain composure in a bold, airy environment. This section carries a 5.9 rating and demands confident foot placements and steady breathing as you navigate grooves and edges to another comfortable belay.

Finishing off, the fifth pitch is shorter—around 15 meters of more moderate climbing at 5.7, best climbed in tandem with the fourth pitch to maintain rhythm and flow. Throughout the route, protection mainly requires a few key pieces—specifically a #3 cam, a .5 cam, and quickdraws—highlighting the importance of precise gear selection to tackle tricky placements safely.

Beyond the climb itself, Three Roofs sits within Banff National Park’s rugged limestone walls, where towering cliffs rise sharply against the alpine sky. The approach winds through a protected wilderness area rich with pine forests and the fresh scent of mountain air—a perfect prelude to the rock beneath. Climbers can expect approximately a 20 to 30-minute hike on a well-defined trail that gradually elevates, offering steady views of the surrounding valleys and peaks.

Timing your climb to avoid harsh afternoon heat is wise, as the route faces east and basks in morning light, cooling off by late afternoon. Spring through early fall delivers the best conditions, ensuring dry rock and moderate temperatures. Descending involves either a straightforward walk-off along the established trail or a series of rappels that require cautious attention to rope management and anchor quality.

For those preparing to send Three Roofs, solid technical skills are essential, with patience for the demanding crux pitches. The line’s diversity—from roof punches to hands-on cracks—makes it a rewarding objective for trad climbers eager for a full-day adventure with a mix of excitement and manageable exposure. The surrounding national park ensures you’ll not only climb challenging features but be immersed in one of Canada’s finest alpine settings, where wild rivers chant nearby and pine boughs whisper encouragement. This is a climb that stretches your capacities while grounding you completely in the mountain experience.