"Condo Crack invites climbers into the world of multi-pitch trad with accessible jams and reliable protection. With two pitches that blend smooth hand jams and rewarding views of the Chief, it’s an ideal route for those refining crack technique in one of Squamish’s quieter corners."
Condo Crack offers a welcoming introduction to multi-pitch trad climbing, situated within the rugged contours of Backside Crags at The Papoose area. This 250-foot route stretches over two pitches of approachable crack climbing, inviting novices and those easing into traditional gear placements to engage with solid jamming techniques and smooth movement. The climb begins with a straightforward, well-defined crack extending 34 meters, guiding you to a spacious ledge that provides a breather and a chance to take in the immediate rock environment. The second pitch shifts slightly left to a bolted belay station and challenges climbers with finger cracks weaving through intermittent horizontal breaks. As you ascend this pitch, the rock tests your hand jams and finger locks, all while revealing exceptional views of the nearby Stawamus Chief massif, a geological icon that dominates the Squamish skyline.
Approaching Condo Crack means entering a landscape where the rock feels alive beneath your touch, its textures offering reliable placements that build confidence. The protection is straightforward, from small cams up to 3 inches, making gear selection manageable for newcomers. With a 70-meter rope, two rappels bring you safely back down, though descending requires a careful rappel with a ledge traverse in between—a slight logistical dance that rewards patience and attention.
For planning, expect a short yet invigorating experience that balances adventure and skill development. The trail to The Papoose is well-traveled and moderately steep, navigating through forested slopes that echo with crows and the occasional rustle of wind. Ideal for spring through early fall, the climb’s east-facing orientation means morning climbs offer a crisp start, gradually warming as the day unfolds. Footwear with supportive edges and good friction will serve you well on the varied rock textures encountered.
Beyond the physical demands, Condo Crack excels at connecting climbers with the elemental essence of trad climbing: listening to the rock, testing placements, and embracing the rhythm of movement. Whether you finish the climb energized by the technical jamming or soothed by the sweeping panoramas, this route leaves an impression as a solid stepping stone in the Squamish trad repertoire.
Pay close attention on the ledge traverse between rappels—watch your footing on loose debris and keep rope management tidy to avoid drag. Rock conditions can be slick after rain, so climb on dry days for optimal safety.
Start early to avoid warming rock and maximize morning shade on the east-facing wall.
Plan for two rappels of approximately 35 meters each; reversing the ledge walk between rappels requires caution.
Wear shoes with solid edging for varied crack sizes and face holds.
Check weather forecasts carefully—trail and rock can be slippery after rain due to moss and moisture.
A 70-meter rope is essential for the two rappels. Bring a typical trad rack from small cams up to 3 inches to secure placements through finger and hand cracks.
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