HomeClimbingComte de Montecristo

Comte de Montecristo: A Sport Climb in Lanaudiere’s Montagne du Tranchant

Lanaudiere, Quebec Canada
technical start
crack-dihedral finish
stick clip recommended
single pitch
sport climbing
Length: 90 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Comte de Montecristo
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Comte de Montecristo challenges climbers with a technical 90-foot ascent featuring a demanding start and a sustained crack-dihedral finish. Perfect for those seeking a sharp test of skill in Lanaudiere's rugged cliffs."

Comte de Montecristo: A Sport Climb in Lanaudiere’s Montagne du Tranchant

Comte de Montecristo presents a focused test of technical skill and mental composure on the rock faces of Montagne du Tranchant, situated within the Lanaudiere region of Quebec. This 90-foot sport climb pulls you into a concentrated battle against thin holds and shifting body positions, beginning with a challenging start that demands a stick clip. Early foot placements are scarce, requiring climbers to rely on strength and tension until reaching the undercling—a hold that becomes the foothold of opportunity. Following this opening gambit, the route transitions into a brief boulder-style section, offering a chance to shake out and regroup before entering a sustained 5.10 stretch where precision and balance come into sharper focus.

The closing moves push past the final rest before guiding you along a left-leaning crack-dihedral that rewards careful reading and steady movement. Here, good holds are mostly plentiful, though one thin segment tests finger strength and resolve. Timing and control are key; a rushed approach often leads to wasted effort, while a deliberate pace opens the potential for an onsight send. Protection is straightforward yet reassuring—12 bolts and an anchor secure the line, providing confidence to commit to demanding sequences.

The climb perches amid mixed forest and exposed ledges, offering glimpses of the surrounding rugged landscape, a reminder that this is not just a physical challenge, but an immersion in Quebec’s vibrant climbing terrain. Suitable for strong climbers comfortable in the low 5.12 range, Comte de Montecristo isn’t about endurance but finesse and reading the rock underfoot. From approach to summit, it invites focus on footwork, mental steadiness, and an appreciation for climbing’s delicate dance between power and poise. Plan for moderate weather conditions, bring sticky shoes, and prepare for a brief but intense climb that leaves a lasting impression with its compact, technical pitches.

Climber Safety

The first bolt is placed beyond tricky footholds, making a stick clip essential to prevent risky falls early on. The rock quality is solid but requires careful attention in the delicate undercling and thin crack section. Always check anchors before rappelling.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Use a stick clip on the opening bolt to avoid hanging on delicate holds.

Focus on steady, controlled foot placements in the bouldery section.

Approach the crack-dihedral with deliberate pace to conserve energy for the thin section.

Wear sticky rubber shoes to maximize edge contact on the less-featured start.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:Graded 5.12a, this climb offers a focused technical challenge rather than sustained endurance. The rating feels accurate but hinges on reading the moves precisely—especially the thin portion near the top where a misread can inflate the difficulty. Compared to other Lanaudiere routes, Comte de Montecristo presents a punchy sequence that rewards climbers with sharp footwork and composure.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected with 12 bolts and an anchor. A stick clip is recommended for the first bolt due to sparse feet early on.

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Tags

technical start
crack-dihedral finish
stick clip recommended
single pitch
sport climbing