Tackling the Complete Northwest Ridge is an adventure that blends alpine grit with technical tradition. This route, stretching 5000 feet along the rugged crest of The Old Settler in British Columbia’s Fraser Valley, invites climbers to embrace a diverse mix of snow travel, scrambling, and moderate trad climbing. Starting at the col at the ridge’s base, accessible from either direction, the journey immediately presents a compelling challenge — an upward push along a crest that juts sharply through the alpine air. The initial 300 meters wind through manageable scrambling that leads to Peak 6600, a sharply pointed outcrop that cuts a striking profile against the sky. You will find the summit block here less of an obstacle and more of a siren’s call, as the recommended route skirts it via a ledge traverse on the south face, just below the peak’s edge. The terrain here leans into easy Class 4 difficulties — enough to keep the senses sharp without becoming overwhelming.

Beyond Peak 6600, the ridge mellows into a blend of Class 2 to 3 scrambling, offering intermittent rocky scrambles that test footwork and attentiveness. The character shifts again with a notable 10-meter corner crack on the south side, rated at 5.6. This section demands steady technique, rewarding steady hands and calm composure as you navigate vertical granite features.

Following the ridge beyond this crux, a distinct notch below the summit’s final steep rise marks the threshold to a trio of technical pitches. These 30-40 meter stretches cycle through ratings of 5.6, 5.5, and 5.3, carving out a sequence of delicate moves where gear placement and route reading come into focus. From the last pitch, expect approximately 300 meters of mixed Class 3 and 4 scrambling as you close in on The Old Settler’s north summit. The rock is predominantly solid, with protection relying on a light rack supplemented by larger cams and hexes up to size eight — double ropes offer safer, flexible descent options, especially during rappel sections.

The alpine environment commands respect as winds whistle along the ridge, and the surrounding peaks stand watch while the forested valley below seems distant but alive with sound. Climbers should arrive prepared for shifting weather and changing conditions, essential in this high and exposed environment. Timing your climb for stable weather windows, and starting early in the day, aids in keeping hazards like loose rock and afternoon storms at bay.

Navigating this ridge offers more than physical challenge — it’s a dialogue with the mountain, where every ledge, crack, and rock step offers immediate feedback. This route rewards planning and practical readiness as much as enthusiasm. Bring strong boots with solid edging capability, carry protection suited for trad placements, and pack sufficient hydration and energizing snacks to maintain steady momentum.

In all, the Complete Northwest Ridge guides you through a steadily escalating alpine experience, where effort translates directly into expansive panoramas and a genuine connection to British Columbia’s remote wilderness. It’s a route that demands attention and rewards persistence, perfect for climbers who value both technical climbing and the primal satisfaction of an alpine summit reached on their own terms.