"Coma Girl delivers a short but demanding climb on Sundial Wall, where hard crimps and a small dihedral push technique and power to the limit. Perfect for climbers seeking a sharp technical challenge bolted for confident leads."
Coma Girl challenges climbers with a brief yet intense burst of climbing that demands both finesse and strength. Starting at the base, your fingers grapple with thin crimps that test your grip and focus immediately as the rock demands precision right off the deck. The route swiftly transitions into a tight dihedral, where balance and body positioning become key to maintaining upward momentum. Approaching the finale, the climb opens into steep jugs that provide crucial rest and a satisfying reward after the earlier technical moves. Sundial Wall’s clean rock stands firm, offering reliable bolt protection that lets climbers push hard without hesitation. The boulder-strewn area surrounding the wall hums with quiet energy, its open expanse punctuated by scattered trees that throw dappled shadows, lending a cool relief during sunny days.
Situated in the vibrant Ontario South Bouldering and Rock area, this sport climb sits within easy reach of nearby communities while still offering a taste of wilderness. The approach is short and straightforward, luring climbers who value efficiency alongside a quality climb. The wall faces south-southeast, so mornings deliver shaded starts while afternoons welcome the sun’s warmth — an alignment that favors late spring through early fall ascents. Planning your trip midweek or early morning can minimize crowds, giving you the space to focus on the subtle footwork and finger strength Coma Girl demands.
Gear-wise, the route’s bolt placements simplify protection choices, but the compact nature of the climb means strong fingers and confident movement on small holds are essential. Bringing tape or finger care essentials is wise, as the sharp crimps can exact a toll on skin. Hydration shouldn’t be overlooked, especially on warmer days when the sun brings the wall to life. For those combining multiple routes in the area, a pair of sticky climbing shoes with a snug fit will serve best for the cruxy bottom section.
Sundial Wall itself offers a compact, focused climbing experience with clear quality that appeals to climbers ready to test the limits at the 5.10c grade. Given the modest length and single pitch, Coma Girl is perfect for an intense morning session or a rewarding stop on a broader climbing day. While the route may feel short, its concentrated difficulty requires sustained attention, making it a worthy challenge for those stepping confidently into sport climbing’s mid-grade realm.
Watch your foot placements carefully on the initial moves; the crimps are delicate, and falls tend to be low but can cause injury if not controlled. The bolts are solid, but take care on the steep jugs near the anchor, as the rock can feel slippery when wet. Avoid climbing after rain, as the rock can retain moisture.
Start early for cooler morning shade on the wall’s southeastern aspect.
Wear climbing shoes with a snug fit to maximize precision on the fickle crimps.
Bring finger tape or balm; the crimps are sharp and can wear skin quickly.
Stay hydrated, especially on sunny days when the rock heats up quickly.
Bolts and a secure anchor protect this climb, allowing you to focus on powerful, precise movements over the technical crimping and steep jugs. Bring tape for delicate fingers and sticky shoes to stick the small holds along the crux.
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