HomeClimbingColonel of Bernal

Colonel of Bernal: A Sport Climb on Peña de Bernal's West Face

Bernal, Querétaro Mexico
sport climbing
ceiling crux
limestone
exposed
single pitch
Mexican climbing
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Colonel of Bernal
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Colonel of Bernal is a crisp 80-foot sport climb on Peña de Bernal’s rugged west face, offering a steady line punctuated by a challenging ceiling. Perfect for climbers seeking a short but focused test amid the iconic Mexican monolith."

Colonel of Bernal: A Sport Climb on Peña de Bernal's West Face

Peña de Bernal stands as one of Mexico’s most striking monoliths, its jagged silhouette slicing into the sky near the town of Bernal in Querétaro. Among its less-traveled lines, the Colonel of Bernal offers climbers a straightforward yet engaging sport climb that showcases the rugged character of the west face. This route begins just slightly to the right of a familiar landing, granting a sense of discovery as you step onto the textured rock. As your hands find large holds climbing toward the first ceiling, the rock’s rough edges and natural pockets provide a steady rhythm, inviting you to trust in your grip and your gear.

At approximately 40 feet up, the ceiling challenges you to apply power and balance, its overhanging feature demanding a brief moment of concentrated effort to pull over. Surmounting this obstacle rewards you with a breather on solid ledges before a final push to the anchor. The entire pitch stretches roughly 80 feet, making it a concise but satisfying test of skill. Bolted protection ensures security, tying you into a two-bolt anchor after a clean, well-spaced line of bolts that complement the natural route of the climb.

The area itself provides more than just physical demands—the arid air mingles with the warm sun, while occasional breezes whisper through the exposed rock surface. The climb’s west face orientation means the route catches sunlight late in the day, cooling quickly as the sun dips, so afternoon ascents in the cooler months come highly recommended. Reaching this wall involves a clear but rocky approach from the base town of Bernal; hikers will find a mixed terrain of dry scrubland and weathered paths stretching underfoot, a reminder that preparation extends beyond your chalk bag.

For those planning to experience the Colonel of Bernal, hydration is key given the dry environment. Sturdy shoes with solid edging capabilities will help secure footing on the weathered limestone. Expect some loose fragments near the anchors, a small caution to maintain steady focus on each movement. Despite its modest grade of 5.7, the exposed ceiling section creates a subtle crux that keeps climbers attentive, a physical nudge that elevates the climb beyond a simple beginner route. As a single-pitch, 80-foot sport climb with reliable bolts, Colonel of Bernal sits comfortably for those ready to blend technical skill with the raw charm of Peña de Bernal’s rock.

Climber Safety

Loose rock can be found near the anchor and at the base—stay alert to avoid dislodging debris. The ceiling section calls for controlled, deliberate moves to maintain safety during the crux.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the marked trail from Bernal town; watch for loose rocks near the base.

Bring sufficient water—the area is dry and sun-exposed in the afternoon.

Afternoon climbs are best during cooler months to avoid the full heat of the sun on the west face.

Use shoes with good edging for the textured limestone surface and be cautious near the ceiling transition.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.7
Quality
Consensus:While graded 5.7, Colonel of Bernal includes a ceiling move that adds a focused crux, requiring good technique and strength despite the modest rating. Compared to other climbs in the region, its difficulty might feel slightly more demanding than typical 5.7 routes because of this sustained bulge, providing a solid intermediate challenge.

Gear Requirements

The route is equipped with bolts spaced to maintain secure protection throughout the 80-foot pitch, leading to a reliable two-bolt anchor. A 30-meter rope is ideal to reach the anchor smoothly without drag.

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Tags

sport climbing
ceiling crux
limestone
exposed
single pitch
Mexican climbing