"Cole-Evans carves a less crowded path on the west face of Echo Rock, offering a solid 5.9 trad climb with reliable protection and engaging granite. Perfect for climbers seeking a peaceful pitch with classic Joshua Tree personality."
Rising from the rugged granite walls of Echo Rock, the Cole-Evans route offers an approachable yet rewarding climb for trad enthusiasts seeking space away from the busier southwest face. This single-pitch climb spans roughly 165 feet, ascending a clean line just to the right of the prominent Eff Four gully, an unmistakable landmark that guides your path. The rock here has a firm texture, allowing hands and feet to find secure holds as the climb works steadily upward without unnecessary theatrics.
The route is anchored by two to three bolts, but the heart of the climb lies in its straightforward traditional placements. Expect to layer protection in cracks that challenge your gear skills without demanding expert-level trickery. The 5.9 rating aligns with the physical effort required—there’s a steady grind but no intense cruxes that would trip up the well-prepared climber. Yet, the rock’s natural features invite close attention to footwork and balance.
Echo Rock itself stands at the edge of Joshua Tree National Park, a rugged desert environment where every breeze and crack in the stone speaks to the enduring power of nature’s forces. The approach moves across dry, rocky terrain typical of the high desert, with sparse but lively vegetation that whispers in the wind. Light filters differently here, with slower drying in shaded pockets, especially in cooler mornings or late afternoons.
Climbing Cole-Evans means embracing a quiet section of Echo Rock’s west face, providing a chance to climb at your own pace, undistracted by crowds. Bringing sturdy shoes and plenty of water is essential in this arid landscape. Aim for early starts to beat the heat and to catch cooler temps before the desert sun climbs high. The descent is a straightforward walk off after topping out, keeping your focus on footing as you descend the talus below.
This route combines the thrill of confident trad climbing with the peaceful solitude of a less traveled section of one of California’s iconic climbing areas. It’s a solid choice for those ready to test their skills on classic Joshua Tree granite, with a modest commitment and satisfying exposure to the desert’s wild character.
The route’s protection relies on a mix of bolts and traditional gear placements; double-check all anchor points, especially if you’re unfamiliar with Joshua Tree granite, which can sometimes be slick or sandstone-influenced. Always wear a helmet to guard against occasional rockfall from the upper talus near the descent.
Start early to avoid the peak desert heat and enjoy cooler climbing conditions.
Wear sturdy rock shoes with good edging capability to navigate the granite face confidently.
Carry at least two liters of water; Joshua Tree’s high desert climate can dehydrate you quickly.
Plan to descend by walking the talus slope directly below the route — watch your footing on loose rock.
Two or three bolts anchor the route, supplemented by traditional protection opportunities within cracks and seams. Bring standard trad gear with runners and nuts to comfortably protect the pitch.
Upload your photos of Cole-Evans and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.