"A terse and gritty trad climb, "Colder Than Hell" ascends Campground Rock’s center crack with a demanding off-width finish. Climbers face an abrasive granite line that tests both technique and gear, set against Devil's Head’s stark wilderness backdrop."
Located within the rugged embrace of Devil's Head, just beyond the parking lot trailhead, "Colder Than Hell" commands attention with its stark, unapologetic off-width crack climbing. This route ascends the center crack on Campground Rock, a solid granite formation that demands both patience and power. Your approach begins with a brief but gritty scramble and chimney section, teasing a taste of the physical commitment ahead before reaching the base. From here, the climb kicks off in a broad hands crack that steadily widens into a challenging off-width near the upper section. Along the way, climbers will encounter a ledge approximately three-quarters of the way up. This small respite is marked by two obstinate bushes that stand as minor gatekeepers, forcing a careful negotiation that’s as much about finesse as brute strength.
The rock is raw and textured under your fingers, with gritty edges that invite precise hand jams and strategic rests. The ever-expanding crack transitions from familiar finger and hand jams into an off-width realm that tests your technique and endurance. This isn’t a climb for the faint-hearted or underprepared. Long pants, sleeves, and tape gloves are not just recommended; they’re essential to protect you from the abrasive granite and the scruffy vegetation guarding the upper ledge.
Protection on "Colder Than Hell" requires thoughtful preparation. The line demands a rack heavy on mid-sized cams—double sets from BD #2 through #4 and a single #5 serve as the minimum arsenal, while triples of #4s and doubles of #5s provide peace of mind on the steepest sections. Anchors sit atop the route, now bolstered and more secure, thanks to recent additions. Small fingers are essential for shoring up the anchor system; sizes around #0.3 to #0.5 will complete your rack. The placement demands a watchful eye; some spots can be tricky to protect, particularly in the off-width stretches that discourage traditional gear from seating easily.
This single-pitch ascent spans approximately 75 feet, packing a significant dose of technical climbing into a compact vertical journey. Rated 5.9-, it nudges the boundary where steady technique meets physical grit. Climbers familiar with classic Colorado off-width routes will find this line challenging but very satisfying, particularly as it balances sustained crack climbing with the occasional negotiating of natural obstacles.
Approaching "Colder Than Hell" nets a short five-to-ten minute walk from the well-marked Devil's Head Parking Lot, winding over granite slabs and through thick, pine-scented forest. While the approach is straightforward, bathroom and water amenities are limited, so plan ahead. Generally, this climb is well-suited for morning ascents to catch shade on the cooler rock, especially during summer months when Colorado’s sun beats down relentlessly.
Descent is straightforward—climbers rappel the route using anchors that are solid and well-maintained. Attention to rope management is crucial, especially when retreating down through the shrubs and ledge areas, which can snag gear. This makes for a smooth exit but demands careful handling.
Whether you’re stepping up from basic crack climbing or hungry for a taste of true off-width grit, "Colder Than Hell" delivers a classic Colorado trad experience. It’s a raw, tactile test set in a wild, accessible environment—one that rewards preparation and respect for nature’s uncompromising character.
Beware of the stubborn bushes 3/4 up the climb—they can snag gear and skin alike. Always confirm gear placements carefully in the off-width section, as some cracks can be inconsistent. The approach involves loose rock and a short chimney scramble; cautious footing is important. Additionally, skin protection is vital to avoid abrasions.
Start early to enjoy cooler, shaded granite in the mornings.
Bring long sleeves and tape gloves to protect against rough rock and bushes.
Pack plenty of water as there are no amenities near the trailhead.
Double-check your cam placements in the off-width to ensure rock quality.
Expect to haul a full rack weighted toward mid-size cams. Double BD #2-4 sets cover most placements; add a single #5 and consider triples of #4s and doubles of #5s for secure protection throughout the off-width. Small finger cams around 0.3 to 0.5 fill out the anchor. Tape gloves and durable clothing are crucial due to abrasive rock and thorny bushes near the upper ledge.
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