"Cojones de Acero offers two steep, bold pitches on Yukon’s Rusted Goat Wall, combining runout tension with accessible moves and breathtaking wilderness views. This route challenges your composure as much as your climbing skill in a remote, wild setting."
Cojones de Acero carves a bold signature into the rugged silhouette of the Rusted Goat Wall, offering climbers a raw, two-pitch sport experience framed by the vast expanse of Yukon’s wilderness. The approach alone primes the adventurer’s pulse, hiking into an isolated corner of the White Mountain region where solitude and wilderness weigh heavily. Pitch one demands respect. It stretches out over 55 meters, tracing a right-then-left leaning ramp before surging vertically to a small slanting ledge barely ten meters beneath a sheer wall. The spacing between bolts in this section is sparse, a feature that challenges both nerve and technique, though the moves themselves stay accessible enough to steady an eager climber’s pace. This runout test is as much mental as physical, with the panoramic Yukon backdrop daring you to look down but urging you onward.
From the belay, the second pitch eases into a 30-meter jaunt that arcs up and right, following a path toward the gravel-strewn goat trail known locally. This section, rated 5.7, offers a welcome relief in intensity, blending easier climbing with natural terrain until a large tree marks a safe anchor point. Here, the rock quality shifts noticeably, the footing steadies, and the rhythm flows easier, a chance to catch your breath and refocus.
Exiting the climb requires attention. The descent winds along the goat trail toward the right, guiding toward a distant cell tower. Scrambling upward on more forgiving, solid rock spurs you to the first grassy ledge. From there, a series of grassy terraces and small ascents lifts you to the summit ridge, where sweeping views of Yukon’s wilderness stretch as far as the eye can see. The final stage is a steady hike down via a well-worn trail – essential knowledge for a smooth end to a route that offers both challenge and captivating isolation.
Practically speaking, gear requirements center around nine quickdraws, a single bolted anchor, and the simplicity of a sturdy tree for your second belay. This blend points clearly to a climb that balances calculated risk with manageable protection. For those considering Cojones de Acero, timing your ascent to avoid afternoon storms and cooler seasons enhances safety and enjoyment, as does preparing for variable weather and rugged terrain on the approach.
This climb is a call to those who want to feel the raw pulse of northern wilderness climbing — the space, the height, and the mental game that comes with fewer bolts and longer runs. Cojones de Acero delivers an unabashed test of patience, focus, and technical competence with the uncompromising beauty only Yukon can provide.
Bolt spacing on pitch one is wide, increasing the potential for long falls — protect your lead carefully and stay aware of loose rock. Scrambling descent includes exposed grassy ledges and unstable gravel; approach with deliberate footwork and be prepared for sudden weather shifts.
Plan your climb for morning hours to avoid afternoon weather changes common in Yukon.
Wear sturdy shoes with sticky rubber for the mix of slabs and gravelly sections.
Pack extra water and layers due to unpredictable mountain conditions.
Use the goat trail descent carefully—watch footing on loose gravel and grassy ledges.
Bring nine quickdraws to navigate the longer runouts on pitch one, plus a single bolted anchor and rely on a large tree for the second belay. Protection is sparse but sufficient, demanding precise gear placements and mental readiness for runouts.
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