"Coin Central is a focused trad climb that runs a clean corner crack in Parc Récréoforestier de Saint-Mathieu. With two distinct start options and careful gear placements, it’s a rewarding line for those sharpening their crack skills in a quiet, forested setting."
Coin Central invites climbers into a precise, corner-crack trad climb carved into the limestone of Parc Récréoforestier de Saint-Mathieu. The route offers a focused challenge over 30 feet, with a single pitch that demands both strategic thinking and steady hands. As you approach, the rock’s texture rises sharply, the dihedral gripping your attention like a natural channel shaped for fingers and toes to dance in tandem. The climb begins with two distinct options: either start directly beneath the dihedral with solid, well-positioned footholds allowing for controlled upward movement despite the slight overhang, or veer right to follow a ramp leading naturally up to the corner. Both start lines play with body positioning and offer a tight, engaging way to interact with the route’s character.
The environment around the climb is quietly commanding—the rock itself speaks through the crack’s edges, promising solid placements for a rack composed mainly of nuts and small cams. Minimal protection is needed here, but precision is key; placements require careful judgment as the crack’s shape invites confident stops for gear but offers little room for error. It’s a climb that rewards attention to detail and smooth technique rather than brute strength.
Reaching the summit provides a satisfying moment—no extravagant summit views, but a palpable sense of accomplishment within this contained slice of the Mauricie wilderness. With just two votes and an average star rating signaling a niche appeal, Coin Central stands as a concise trad route for those looking to stretch their crack climbing skills without committing to long or heavily trafficked lines.
Practical tips for this climb revolve around preparation and timing. The rock stays dry quickly after rain, but climbers benefit from starting climbs during mid-morning to take advantage of shaded pockets along the face. Footwear with sticky soles will maximize grip on the subtle footholds, essential in balancing the crack’s technical seam. Hydration is less critical here given the climb’s brevity, but the surrounding forest can be humid during summer months, so a light water supply is wise.
Coin Central’s location within Quebec’s Parc Récréoforestier speaks to a quieter, accessible side of the Mauricie region’s climbing offerings. The approach is straightforward, weaving through forest paths that awaken the senses with rustling leaves and distant birdsong. This setting encourages focus—both on the rock and the natural elements that cradle the route.
Whether you’re honing crack climbing finesse or seeking a manageable trad route to fit into a busy day outdoors, Coin Central’s sharp corner crack challenges with clear, practical demands and a touch of wilderness’s brisk spirit. The route offers a concise climb, executed through mindful gear placements and tactical moves that keep climbers engaged at every step.
Though protection is generally solid, the climb demands attention to small nut placements—loose or poorly seated gear can pose risk. Wet or after-rain conditions may reduce friction on footholds, so dry weather is recommended.
Start mid-morning to catch shaded sections of the climb.
Use shoes with sticky rubber to maximize grip on footholds.
Double-check nut placements for solid protection in the crack.
Approach via forest trail; expect 15–20 minutes from parking.
A single rack including a standard set of nuts provides sufficient protection. The crack’s shape favors smaller pro, with secure placements if carefully chosen.
Upload your photos of Coin Central and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.