Cohiba Crack stands out as a focused and demanding trad climb marking the Castro Mesa Buttress within the Santa Monica Mountains. This single pitch of approximately 60 feet begins with a delicate face section that leads into a progressively widening finger crack, culminating in hand jams near the summit. The sandstone here is characteristically soft, urging climbers to place protection generously and cautiously assess each hold. The rock’s subtle flex adds a living element to the climb, requiring steady hands and calculated moves.

Situated in the Los Angeles Basin’s rugged outskirts, the approach to Cohiba Crack is a straightforward but engaging trek through chaparral and open scrub. The climb offers a compact dose of technical challenge amidst dramatic scenery with panoramic views stretching over the southern California coastline and inland hills. This route demands respect both for its physical demands and the delicate nature of the rock, making it an ideal outing for climbers comfortable with traditional protection but seeking a bold statement route close to the city.

Protection calls for pro placements up to 2.5 inches, and route-finders should be mindful of the soft sandstone when anchoring gear. The climb ends at an anchor that allows a careful descent: wrap around the summit block’s backside and downclimb a mellow rippled slab off the shoulder of the right flank of the buttress. This downclimb requires attention but provides a secure exit compared to more exposed rappels.

Ideal timing for this climb is cooler months or early morning in warmer seasons to avoid heat soaking the exposed rock. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential to manage tricky smears on the face section before the crack fully opens. Maintaining a steady rhythm and having patience for gear placements will reward climbers with a clean, confident ascent through this quiet enclave of the Santa Monica Mountains.