Coeur de Dragon commands attention with its striking combination of traditional climbing and aid tactics, set against the rugged backdrop of Quebec’s Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean region. This two-pitch route rises over 130 feet, weaving through distinct terrain that tests both your technical prowess and calm in airy exposure. The climb begins with the aptly named first pitch, Le coin, setting a solid tone with clean aid climbing that welcomes micro nuts and a few precise hook moves. The rock holds a steady grip under your fingers, and the route’s protection encourages confident upward movement.

Transitioning to the heart of Coeur de Dragon on the second pitch brings a shift in character. Here, two roofs punctuate the line, demanding calculated aid placements and measured effort. The subtle overhang challenges you physically and mentally as you navigate toward a stirring final traverse. This section offers an exhilarating sense of space and suspension, making the climb feel alive and immediate in its exposure. With bolted belays placed thoughtfully throughout, the route remains secure, though the airy setting rewards climbers comfortable with vertical commitment.

Coeur de Dragon sits within the remote reaches of Le parapluie sector, where the quiet of Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean’s forested hills meets craggy cliffs carved by time. The location’s latitude near 48.4 degrees means cooler temperatures prevail much of the year, and the rock retains its clean character due to minimal foot traffic. While aid is the core approach here, free climbers eyeing the challenge can test themselves at a strenuous 5.13a grade. For most, the aid climbing route offers an engaging, balanced adventure that blends technical placement with continuous movement.

Planning your ascent involves careful preparation. The approach is straightforward but demands respect for the wilderness setting; sturdy footwear and layered clothing will serve you well. Bringing an appropriate rack of micro nuts, hooks, and standard protection is essential, as protection along Coeur de Dragon is generally good but requires a precise touch. Early season climbs offer stable conditions before fall cools the rock surface, while summer days give extended daylight to savor each pitch.

As you climb, the natural environment asserts itself—the wind whistles softly beneath the roofs, and the cool stone presses against your hands, grounding the sensation of pushing through exposed moves. The nearby forests seem to watch quietly, as if testing your resolve on this fine line between earth and sky. Descending is straightforward with a rappel from bolted anchors, but care must be taken to avoid loose debris and ensure secure rigging.

For climbers seeking a route that blends thoughtful aid sequences with sharp exposure and scenic wilderness, Coeur de Dragon presents a compelling option. This climb invites both a mental game and a physical dance, rewarding those who respect its demands with a memorable experience in one of Quebec’s less-traveled climbing enclaves.