HomeClimbingClub International

Club International: The Southeast Face Adventure on Bustle Tower

Fort Simpson, Canada
left-facing dihedral
roof crux
long runners
clean protection
remote
multi-pitch
granite
aid climbing
Length: 1500 ft
Type: Trad | Aid
Stars
Pitches
12
Location
Club International
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Club International climbs the Southeast Face of Bustle Tower through twelve pitches of solid granite, combining precise crack climbing with a technical, dripping roof crux. This route offers a classic blend of adventure and technical challenge in the heart of Canada's remote Cirque of the Unclimbables."

Club International: The Southeast Face Adventure on Bustle Tower

Rising sharply out of the remote wilderness of the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Club International stakes its claim on Bustle Tower’s Southeast Face with twelve pitches of demanding granite climbing that challenge both skill and will. Here, the stone feels alive beneath your fingertips — cool, rough, and utterly uncompromising. This classic route carves a deliberate line through towering left-facing dihedrals, winding up toward a notorious, dripping roof on pitch six that demands careful movement and patience. When the moisture subsides, this bulge can be freed at a solid 5.11 mid-grade, offering an intoxicating taste of clean, sustained climbing.

The climb rewards those prepared to embrace the wild spirit of the Northwest Territories. The granite is sharp and solid, revealing cracks and corners that whisper old climbing legends, while the air carries the faint scent of mountain birch and cold stone. Starting early is key here—the approach brings you into fairy-tale like meadows where one can catch glimpses of jagged peaks etched against a wide northern sky. Though the ascent can be completed in a single long, committed day, many choose to fix lines on the lower pitches and rest at the bivouac near Fairy Meadows, a quiet clearing that seems suspended in time. The route topo itself was sketched on a forgotten magazine found in a waterproof container at the camp, adding an unexpected touch of whimsy to this serious alpinist’s challenge.

Planning essentials include carrying two sets of cams ranging from tiny #00 to large 5", combined with a pair of nut sets, ensuring clean protection throughout the climb. Long runners are critical to keep your rope drag manageable on exposed traverses and corners. The route requires two 60-meter ropes to efficiently negotiate long pitches and rappels.

Navigating Club International demands steady technique and respect for the changing conditions, especially around the mid-route roof where dripping water can transform key holds into slick hazards. The surrounding wilderness amplifies the feeling of isolation, so make sure your approach is well planned — the Cirque is a place that rewards thorough preparation and leaves no room for complacency.

For climbers ready to test themselves in one of Canada’s most storied granite playgrounds, Club International offers a blend of adventure, technical climbing, and the satisfying pulse of a well-earned ascent against a backdrop few places on earth can match.

Climber Safety

Expect sharp granite edges and potential moisture on the roof pitch that can make holds slick. The approach is remote, so be prepared for rapidly changing weather and carry adequate emergency supplies. Route-finding requires attention; keep track of the dihedrals leading to the roof. Permits and awareness of local regulations are recommended given the pristine environment.

Route Details

TypeTrad | Aid
Pitches12
Length1500 feet

Local Tips

Start very early to maximize dry conditions on pitch six's roof section.

Fix lower pitches and bivy at Fairy Meadows for a two-day push.

Use long runners extensively to manage rope drag over wandering dihedrals.

Watch for wet holds after rain or melt—especially on mid-route roof.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10+ C2
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10+ free rating is stout, particularly when pitch six’s roof remains wet, effectively adding to the challenge and pushing the technical demands of the climb. The C2 aid rating is straightforward yet requires solid gear placements and confidence on exposed positions, making this route feel approachable yet testing for those comfortable at this grade. Compared to other lines in the Cirque, Club International stands out with its sustained crack climbing and a prominent mid-route crux that separates polished execution from casual attempts.

Gear Requirements

Two to three sets of cams from #00 to 5 inches cover protection needs well, along with two sets of nuts. Long runners help reduce rope drag on the exposed traverses. Two 60m ropes are essential for pitches and rappels. The route goes clean with no fixed pins; all pro placements are natural and reliable.

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Tags

left-facing dihedral
roof crux
long runners
clean protection
remote
multi-pitch
granite
aid climbing