"Cliptomaniac challenges climbers with a sustained, technical 120-foot sport climb on The Pillar of Payan in Squamish’s Valley of Shaddai. Its relentless sequence of moves demands sharp focus, rewarding persistent climbers with a satisfying test of skill."
Cliptomaniac stands as one of Squamish's longest and most demanding sport climbs, firmly planted on the left arete of The Pillar of Payan in the remote Valley of Shaddai. From the moment you step onto the rock, you're drawn into a continuous puzzle of technical moves that stretch across 120 feet of steep, exposed stone. This single-pitch route challenges climbers with a sustained sequence of intricate cruxes that demand both mental focus and precise footwork. While the initial attempts may feel like wrestling with a complex enigma, perseverance reveals a rhythm that softens the physical strain—making it a climb that rewards time spent working the moves.
The approach itself sets the tone for the day: a trek into one of Squamish’s less-trafficked valleys, where pine and cedar watch quietly as you prepare. The Pillar of Payan rises sharply, an imposing presence etched against towering firs and the sprawling forest. The rock is solid, granite with a slightly polished sheen, challenging your grip and balance as you progress. Each bolt along the route — fourteen in total — offers a measure of security amidst the route’s relentless technicality, yet climbers are well advised to carry a rack with cams sized from 0.5 to #2 Camalots to manage sections beyond the bolts.
The climbing eases after the final bolt, welcoming a few moves of more straightforward movement that let your arms shake out before the final stretch. But don’t mistake this reprieve for ease; the route’s grade of 5.11d reflects a tough climb that balances physical demand with mental tenacity.
Squamish’s granite here tells its own story: each hold shaped by the elements, the rock daring you to read its subtle edges and pockets. The air hums with quiet forest sounds, punctuated only by the scrape of shoes against stone and occasional chatter from distant climbers. Sunlight filters through the canopy, cooling patches of the wall and offering relief on warm days. Because this climb faces northeast, mornings bring crisp shadows and afternoons shine brightly on the arete — optimal timing for a late morning start to avoid the midday heat.
Descending is straightforward but deserves attention. The two-bolt anchor at the top allows a secure rappel; the forest below is steep and thick, making downclimbing impractical. Rappel ropes should be long enough to reach the base safely, and don’t rush the descent — loose branches and slippery terrain stay alert.
Cliptomaniac is a true highlight in Squamish’s extensive climbing catalog, demanding commitment but delivering a gripping reward. For climbers who appreciate a route that tests technique over brute force, and satisfies with a clean, commanding line, this route stands out. The quiet majesty of the Valley of Shaddai adds a layer of solitude to the experience — a place where focus sharpens and every move matters.
The rappel descent requires precision; ensure your rope is long enough to reach the base safely. The forested terrain below is steep and loose, so secure your footing and avoid rushing off the route.
Start late morning to avoid the intense afternoon sun on the northeast-facing wall.
Bring cams sized 0.5 to #2 Camalot for optional protection beyond bolts.
Use sticky rubber shoes for the polished granite holds.
Plan for a rappel descent from the two-bolt anchor; downclimbing is hazardous.
The route is bolted with at least 14 quickdraw placements leading to a secure two-bolt anchor. Beyond the final bolt, climbing eases but carrying a set of cams from 0.5 to #2 Camalot helps protect tricky spots left unbolted.
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