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Cling Tenaciously to My Buttocks

Joshua Tree, California USA
trad
chimney
desert
single pitch
bolt protection
crack moves
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Cling Tenaciously to My Buttocks
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Find your balance on this focused 50-foot trad climb located on The Tortuga’s east face. Blending technical chimney moves with smart gear placements, this route tests patience and precision amid Joshua Tree’s iconic desert landscape."

Cling Tenaciously to My Buttocks

In the heart of Joshua Tree National Park, the east face of The Tortuga presents a climb that commands respect and precision. Cling Tenaciously to My Buttocks delivers a focused trad experience over a moderate 50 feet, threading a ramp and chimney system punctuated by two well-placed bolts. As you start your ascent, the rock’s sun-warmed texture offers a reassuring friction, while the desert air carries a quiet stillness broken only by the faint rustling of hardy scrub and distant calls of desert birds. The route’s chimney challenges you to rely on balance and body tension, coaxing you into a dance between vulnerability and control—a test not just of strength but of composure. Protection calls for a range of small to large placements, demanding careful gear selection and mindful placements in spaces where the rock widens and narrows with intention. The two bolts offer fixed security, but this climb rewards those who come prepared with trad rack and patience.

Access is straightforward—located along the Geology Tour Road, the trail to The Tortuga is clear and well-trodden, making the approach a smooth half-hour that eases you into the desert’s raw beauty. Expect a gravelly path winding through the dry, scrubby landscape under an expansive blue sky, with temperatures that climb quickly in the sun’s glare. Aim for early morning or late afternoon starts to avoid the harshest heat and enjoy a pleasant balance of shadow and light on the rock face.

This route embodies the spirit of Joshua Tree’s less crowded corners—intimate, demanding, and quietly thrilling. The climb suits those eager to hone crack and chimney technique in a setting framed by the park’s rugged outlines. Practical gear advice: bring a range of cams to cover narrow to wide placements, slings for extending gear in uneven placements, and be prepared for tricky body positioning around the bolts. The single pitch nature of the climb makes it a manageable commitment but no less intense, especially when the desert’s openness presses in around you.

Beyond the immediate challenge, the location offers a stark reminder of nature’s endurance; winds cut through the desert like whispers, and the granite’s ancient face holds stories of time etched into its grains. Whether you’re aiming for a quick morning send or a relaxed afternoon climb, Cling Tenaciously to My Buttocks earns its place on your Joshua Tree itinerary with a blend of technical demands, desert atmosphere, and a taste of the park’s timeless character.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock within the chimney and test placements carefully; the narrow crack sometimes hides hollow spots. Be mindful of sun exposure—morning light is ideal. The bolts are reliable but maintain cautious clipping to avoid rope drag.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid desert heat soaking the rock and your gear.

Wear sturdy, sticky-soled shoes to handle varied chimney textures.

Carry extra water—Joshua Tree’s dryness can sneak up quickly.

Scout the approach trail along Geology Tour Road; it’s well marked but rocky.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:While rated a moderate 5.9, this climb’s chimney section adds a physical nuance that can make the grade feel stiffer, especially if you’re less experienced with these types of placements. The presence of two bolts softens the risk but does not reduce the commitment of precise gear placement. Climbers familiar with Joshua Tree’s trad classics will find this a solid challenge but approachable with proper technique.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack of cams ranging from small to large sizes to cover the chimney’s varying widths. Two fixed bolts provide extra security but plan extended placements, especially in the chimney section. A few quick draws are helpful for clipping the bolts.

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Tags

trad
chimney
desert
single pitch
bolt protection
crack moves