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Climbing the Twisted Granite Spire at Lazy Squaw Ranch

Golden, Colorado USA
granite spire
single pitch
trad gear
forest approach
hidden Colorado climb
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lazy Squaw Spire
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This 80-foot granite spire above Golden Gate Canyon State Park offers a compelling single-pitch trad climb featuring a crux on a southwest-facing granite wall. Its twisted profile and vintage bolts make it a singular gem in Colorado’s climbing landscape."

Climbing the Twisted Granite Spire at Lazy Squaw Ranch

Rising dramatically from the forested ridge above Golden Gate Canyon State Park, the 80-foot granite spire known locally as Lazy Squaw Spire carves an unmistakable silhouette against the Colorado sky. This compact, jagged prow invites climbers to venture off the beaten path for an engaging single-pitch trad climb marked by its distinctive, twisted form and classic, timeworn climbing hardware. Approaching the spire means leaving the well-worn trails behind; you'll hike roughly 20 to 25 minutes uphill through a quiet, dense forest while the sounds of the canyon gradually fade into the background. Reaching the base requires a keen eye to locate the southwest-facing start, where an inviting line of three bolts crosses the rock’s crisp, compact face. These bolts mark the crux—delivering the key challenge on polished granite interrupted by sharp edges and occasional pockets. Once past this section, the route gently arcs right onto the southeast side, transitioning to easier, blockier rock peppered with an ancient bolt that hints at the climb’s vintage credentials. The summit rewards climbers with not only a sense of accomplishment but also sweeping views of forested hills and distant ridgelines, a rare vantage point on this tucked-away granite feature.

Descent is straightforward but demands a careful rope pull from a fixed anchor centered on the summit. Depending on your setup, this rappel stretches from 80 to 95 feet, sliding down the characterful southwest face. Be prepared for an occasional snag as the rope stretches and twists along the rocky descent. Experienced climbers might extend their outing with exploratory bushwhacks, drifting left toward the second buttress of nearby Mt. Thoridin—perfect for adding adventure and discovery to an already memorable day. Gear requirements are simple but precise: small cams and wires, like the blue Alien and #2 Friend, along with slings and quickdraws to negotiate the varied protection opportunities. A 50-meter rope is ideal to manage the rappel efficiently.

This climb holds a quiet charm for both rangers and passing visitors who spot the jagged spire from the surrounding roads, rarely crowded and offering a Colorado rock experience that feels raw yet approachable. While the route’s grade sits at a comfortable 5.9, the unique angles and occasional loose sections reward your attention and respect. The soft patina on the fixed hardware serves as a reminder of a time when this bulky granite sentinel first called climbers to test their mettle here. For anyone passing through Golden Gate Canyon SP, the Lazy Squaw Spire climb delivers a perfect mix of solitude, technical intrigue, and classic Colorado granite climbing—a brief but full immersion into the rugged character of the region’s lesser-known crags.

Climber Safety

While the climb is short, watch for loose rock especially on the upper, blocky sections. The rappel anchor is old but functional; test your rappel setup carefully and expect some rope drag and twisting on the descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start from Panorama Point and continue on the dirt road toward Lazy Squaw Ranch to find the spire base.

Expect a 20-25 minute uphill hike through forest; wear sturdy hiking shoes.

Use a 50m rope for the rappel, which ranges between 80 and 95 feet.

Extend your day by bushwhacking left toward Mt. Thoridin’s second buttress if you want more exploring.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating fits the climb quite well; the crux is concentrated on the bolted face near the start, demanding precise footwork on compact granite. While not overly hard, it challenges climbers with its awkward angles and some loose blocks on the upper sections. Compared to other local 5.9s, Lazy Squaw Spire offers a more unique, twisty context rather than straightforward crack or face routes.

Gear Requirements

Bring small cams (blue Alien, #2 Friend), small wires, 3 quickdraws, 1 longer sling, and a 50m rope to manage the climb and rappel safely.

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Tags

granite spire
single pitch
trad gear
forest approach
hidden Colorado climb