Climbing the Twin Peaks of Clyde Spires in California’s High Sierra

Bishop, California
alpine climbing
multi-pitch
granite
scramble descent
north arete
north couloir
mixed climbing
high elevation
Length: 1200 ft
Type: Trad | Alpine
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
High Sierra Wilderness
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Clyde Spires rise sharply behind Picture Peak in California’s High Sierra, offering climbers two distinct alpine summits and a pair of classic routes blending technical rock and moderate mixed climbing. Remote, scenic, and demanding, this area calls for preparation and rewards with sweeping views and memorable ascents."

Climbing the Twin Peaks of Clyde Spires in California’s High Sierra

Rising above the stark granite of California’s High Sierra, the Clyde Spires present a compelling challenge for climbers drawn to remote alpine adventure. These twin peaks, each surpassing 13,200 feet, hover just south of Picture Peak, although their true location can be misleading on some maps—positioned a quarter-mile west from their often-quoted spot. The West Spire claims a slight elevation advantage, but it is the East Spire that captivates climbers with its striking lines and engaging routes.

Reaching the base is a journey in itself. Starting from the Lake Sabrina trailhead, the approach covers roughly eight miles through classic Sierra terrain. The trail meanders toward Hungry Packer Lake where the route veers left, ascending a ridge that leads around the eastern side of Picture Peak. From here, the landscape opens into a rugged bowl—your gateway to the spires. Depending on your fitness and pack weight, expect 4 to 6 hours to reach the basecamp area. The terrain offers a balance of forested stretches and exposed ridge walking, gifting intermittent views that hint at the wilderness surrounding you.

Once at the spires, the climbing options are concise but memorable. The East Spire's North Arete, graded at 5.10a, offers a compelling multi-pitch challenge first established in 1990 by Swanson and Schnieder. Its classic status draws climbers looking for a commitment route with a blend of technical moves and alpine exposure. For those seeking a less technical but still rewarding ascent, the North Couloir route on the East Spire is more accessible, rated at 5.5 with a moderate ice portion (AI2). This climb showcases the variety of experiences the area can provide—from mixed rock and snow to pure granite edging.

Descent options vary based on your chosen climb and basecamp position. From the spires, two main class-4 scrambles lead down: a West Ridge route toward Mt Wallace, descending over scree slopes that demand careful footing, or a South Ridge path heading east to Echo Col, making a longer loop back to Echo Lake. Both promise sweeping alpine views, but also ask for cautious route-finding skills and excellent self-awareness on loose terrain.

Weather in the High Sierra is famously changeable, so plan for strong sun in summer months and prepare for sudden shifts in conditions at elevation. The prime climbing window spans late spring through early fall, with the best days often coming after overnight clear skies. While the rock type isn’t explicitly detailed here, typical High Sierra granite is solid but demands respect for its sharp edges and occasional brittle sections.

Though the Clyde Spires offer a tight selection of routes, their beauty lies in the remoteness and the alpine atmosphere rather than sheer quantity. Classic climbs to know include the North Couloir, rated 5.5 and earning a solid 3.5-star rating for its accessibility and alpine charm. Climbers venturing here should be competent in route-finding, prepared for a strenuous approach, and ready for the variable challenges of high-elevation climbing.

In the broader context, the Clyde Spires link to the greater High Sierra climbing scene—a wilderness known for its expansive granite walls, high passes, and timeless solitude. This area demands respect, preparation, and a spirit eager for genuine mountain adventure rather than quick tick lists. From the trailhead to the summit and back down, each step is a reminder of climbing’s delicate balance between physical challenge and the sublime grace of natural spaces.

For climbers ready to explore beyond crowded crags and itineraries, the Clyde Spires reward with quiet grandeur, secure anchors in tested routes, and the rugged satisfaction of standing above some of California’s high country best.

Climber Safety

Approach involves long mileage with significant elevation gain—condition your cardio. The class-4 descent requires careful footing on loose scree and exposed ridges. Always wear a helmet to protect against rockfall and use caution with route-finding in variable alpine weather.

Area Details

TypeTrad | Alpine
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length1200 feet

Local Tips

Start early from Lake Sabrina trailhead to allow ample time for approach.

Be prepared for a 4-6 hour hike carrying full climbing packs.

Check weather carefully—alpine storms can appear quickly.

Descent routes can be loose and exposed—helmet and caution advised.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The grades at Clyde Spires sit comfortably in the moderate alpine range, with routes like the 5.5 North Couloir offering accessible climbing for experienced alpinists, while the 5.10a North Arete demands technical precision and commitment. The ratings generally feel fair without evidence of notable sandbagging, typical of classic High Sierra granite climbs. The approachable nature of these routes makes them a fitting challenge paired with the remote environment.

Gear Requirements

Climbers use traditional alpine gear with protection suitable for granite cracks and mixed terrain. The North Couloir involves easy fifth-class climbing and some AI2 ice moves, requiring ice tools and experience. Descent involves class 4 scrambles over loose scree or ridge routes, so sturdy boots and helmets are essential.

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Tags

alpine climbing
multi-pitch
granite
scramble descent
north arete
north couloir
mixed climbing
high elevation